Battery Question - Not as dumb as it might first seem. Would appreciate any advice.

[Steve B]

"Mr. Austerity" wrote

Invest in, or buy at a yard sale .......... a good digital tester. I have a $25 Radio Shack that will measure a 2v. DC range. It gives digital LCD readings to the second decimal place ..... as in 1.37 v. It makes managing batteries easier. I have boxes of 1.3, 1.4, and 1.5+. When I need a battery, I can choose one of those variations depending on if I need it to be strong, or just strong enough.

This helps me out, particularly in managing my nimh batteries when going out for a job, and they've been sitting for a month.

HTH

Steve

[Steve B]

I was once told, "If you're going to save your battery for a while, DON'T test it!" Further went on to say that testing the battery under load condition, although tells you the condition of the battery today, starts a chemical process that ages the battery, it will be gone in six months to a year on the shelf. Conclusion was that to have a battery when you need one, don't perturb it.

Any battery specialists out there to confirm/deny their comment?

****

I agree on not load testing it, but just a very small digital tester would not draw much off the battery.

Steve

[gregz]

An alkaline battery, maybe 1.3 with a remote, but even a regular flashlight will be dim. I usually check them just by voltage and usually good enough. Sometimes when I find my battery tester, I use that. The old dry cells had more voltage but more resistance. Typically 1.65 volts. I have had dry cells last 20 years and still provide some output. I have had nicads last

50 years.

Some harbor freight batteries I have, mostly aaa, start leaking and making noises. Alkalines.

Greg

[Jim Yanik]

Sjouke Burry wrote in news:XnsA0064256D684Fsjoukeburrysoesterbe@213.75.12.10:

my $3 Harbor Fright DMM has a battery test mode that loads the cell(370 ohms) and you read the current. I use it -and- the no-load voltage reading.

they were giving the DMM away free with a coupon,now IIRC,you have to make a $10 purchase to get one free with the coupon.

But CHECK the basic voltage accuracy!!! my first one was WAY off. but I exchanged it for a good one.

[Jim Yanik]

gregz wrote in news: [e-mail]-september.o rg:

I've not had any luck with NiCds lasting,unless they get frequent use. let 'em sit,and they short.

the HF alkalines I bought,half leaked even before I used them. they were AAA cells. I will not buy HF batteries any more.Thunderbolt was the brand name.

I USED to have good no-leaks service from Fuji Novel alkalines(from Big Lots),but the new versions leaked badly. they're off the list too.

my last buy was Ray-O-Vacs. I may try Walgreens brand next,when they're on sale.

[Stormin Mormon]

The newfangled "precharged" NiMH may be better, in that regards.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

.

They never leak but they're never charged when you need them.

Cheap ones won't hold a charge after a few cycles. Waste of money.

[Harry Johnson]

I've been using Maha Powerex and Sanyo Eneloop batteries in a Maha charger and never had a problem.

[clare]

No, 2.2 volts is nominal for a lead acid battery - or 2.

6 cells a2 2 volts for 12 volts. Actual fully charged voltage is up to 13.2 (depending on intitial acid SG and lead composition (calcium, antimony, or pure lead)

[Frank]

Thanks for correcting. I should have said zinc/carbon for the normal

1.5 volt battery.

Wiki has a decent table:

[gregz]

I just measured a less than new d cell. 1.6 volts. 9 volt cell, 9.9 volts no loads.

you could say 1.5 volts with nominal lad.

Greg

[gregz]

Thats how I saw one junk yard test batteries, with a screwdriver.

I was fooling around one day in a military van. Sort of accidentally dropped screwdriver on battery I was checking. Large battery with tops unscrewed. I ran out of that van, or jumped down. 6 fountains of electrolyte hitting ceiling.

Greg