Backup for Well Water During Power Outages

I want that two cycle engine that runs without fuel. It sounds like a valuable solution to reducing energy usage.

Reply to
trader_4
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Basically you would be simulating one double size tank as far as system operation goes.

Wrong. Trader means to put some thing like a 20 gal water heater in the cold line that goes to the pressure tank. When the power is off, the OP can let air in the TP valve, and drain water off the sediment faucet. With what old folks called a "tempering tank" he'd have another few gal of water in the house that gets refreshed automatic like.

Wrong. How's it feel, now?

- . Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus

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Reply to
Stormin Mormon

I'd like you to come to my house, I'll hand you the manual. You can point out to me where it mentions "fogging" the engine.

ETQ 1200, you might be able to find the manual online. Otherwise, you're full of crap, Sherlock.

- . Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus

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Reply to
Stormin Mormon

I wonder, can a hand pump be fitted to a well along with the electric pump? I have no idea but I well remember a hand pump on our back entry, used to pump soft rain water from a cistern (city water was very hard).

Reply to
dadiOH

In particular, it seemed a valid and pertinent suggestion, since HH stated this:

"I've thought about adding a second pressure tank, but there's no way I can think of to ensure one is always fully pressurized (short of filling it up and shutting the valve off. I am trying to avoid stagnant water). Odds are both tanks would be just about empty when the power goes out. "

As you say, my suggestion keeps the second tank full of water. It will only have pressure as much as the original tanks has. But after that pressure is gone, he still will have a tank full of water that he can draw from via a bucket. And it won't be stagnant. As I suggested, he could even have a tank of compressed air rigged up, so that he could pressurize it during an outage. If he made it CO2, he could have sparkling water to bath in!

Reply to
trader_4

In some cases, yes.. But the max lift for water is ~25 ft. So if the water level is lower than that, then you need either a jet pump or submersible.

Reply to
trader_4

If the "tempering tank" (got to call it some thing) was plumbed with a couple valve, the water out could come either from the top (normal) or bottom (in case of emergency). For day to day use, the water coming in the bottom and out the top would keep the tank full.

In case of power cut, put on the carbon dioxide tank, and discharge water out the bottom of the tempering tank, into the house water piping.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

how about a small 12v submersible?

Reply to
Pico Rico

His system will work tht way as long as you are satisfied with stagnant, st inky water when you need it. Or at least flush it several times a year. I h ave a 1/4 mile interconnect between me and my neighbors well in case one of us has a well oproblem. We have both used it (I had to use it for a month last summer). To use it though one has to flush 1/4 mile pipe thoroughly (I used the lawn sprinkler). You do not want to smell what first comes out .

Harry K.

Reply to
Harry K

Yes it can and is done but I have no idea if there is a depth limit on one.

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

satisfied with stagnant, stinky water when you need it. Or at least flush it several times a year. I have a 1/4 mile interconnect between me and my neighbors well in case one of us has a well problem. We have both used it (I had to use it for a month last summer). To use it though one has to flush

1/4 mile pipe thoroughly (I used the lawn sprinkler). You do not want to smell what first comes out.

The system Trader mentioned, uses a tank inline with the water inlet to his pressure tank. Every time you use water inside the house, the tempering tank water is being replaced. Your reading comprehension sucks bigtime, you are clueless at this point.

Do you, (clueless), and your neighbor (also clueless) use compressed air to try and empty out the 1/4 mile pipe between uses? No, didn't think so.

- . Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus

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Reply to
Stormin Mormon

That is if you are using a suction type pump. There are lots of pumps that have the working part down in the water worked by what is known as "suctio n rods". Those are what were used by windmills back in the pre-electric po wer days. IIANM there are hand pumps working the same way. Now the 'stati c level' of the well comes into play as one wouldn't want to try to manuall y pump a 100' column of water.

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

My comprehension is just fine. YOu can have a tank full of water that is k ept full due to lack of any air in it. I which case you get stagnant water because it will never be replaced in normal operation or you can have it c onstantly being replaced in his system. The latter results in it draining a t the same rate. You two do not seem to understand hydraulics very well.

One way or another you are going to have to get air into that second tank t o get it to drain. Any air in it at all in normal use just turns it into a nother pressure tank connected to a common hydraulic system.

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K
[snip]

When we lived on the farm (and used a well), my mother would keep a

1-gallon slip (porcelain slip, my grandmother had her own business) jar of water by the toilet. These jars have big openings, so she could pour it in the bowl fast enough to make it flush. We went to a neighbor who had city water to refill the jars.
Reply to
Mark Lloyd

See my reply to Trader - I finally "got" it.

Of course we use compressed air to empty out that 1/4 mile line. What do you think the air in our pressure tanks is any way?

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

tank full of water that is kept full due to lack of any air in it. I which case you get stagnant water because it will never be replaced in normal operation or you can have it constantly being replaced in his system.

So, for two points and a chance to have the clueless label reviewed, which of those two systems did Trader4 suggest?

And which have we been trying to discuss?

You have no lifelines, and five minutes to reply.

- . Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus

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Reply to
Stormin Mormon

that 1/4 mile line. What do you think the air in our pressure tanks is any way?

From what I know of well systems, the air in the pressure tank is captive. It won't do a bit of good, to clear the 1/4 mile line between your places.

When I winterize RV for the church's camp ground, I use a portable electric compressor, and a blow out adapter or two.

How about yourself, and the 1/4 mile line?

- . Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus

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Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Harry K wrote: ...

if you don't need that many gallons per day you can use a much smaller pump run off battery backup. i'm pretty sure they have them available.

in terms of simple and least expensive when the power goes out here i have a few gallon jugs in the closet for flushing when needed. only used them a few times.

the last time the power went out i filled up some buckets from the faucet while the water had pressure and we used that water instead -- i never needed to get the gallon jugs out.

our water table is really high (2-3ft most of the year) so i could get by with a hand pump for almost everything except drinking/cooking water. i don't know how high the well water gets under natural pressure but i think it is down several hundred feet. shallow wells get salty and/or coal seam flavored water.

songbird

Reply to
songbird

What is the purpose of filling the buckets instead of letting the toilets and faucets get it directly from the supply plumbing? Either way you've got the same amount of water. Maybe I'm missing something.

Anthony Watson

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Reply to
HerHusband

That was my idea with the attic mounted tanks. In normal use water would come in at the top and drain out at the bottom. When the power goes out, gravity would allow the water in the tank to drain down. It would be low pressure, but still usable for flushing toilets and filling pans. Since the tank is always being drained and refilled during normal operation (like a hot water tank) the water shouldn't get stagnant.

The big downside to that option is having to get tanks up into the attic and reworking the house plumbing.

In theory, I could relocate the storage tank out to the pumphouse, still placing it inline with the normal water flow. I would only have pressure till the normal pressure tank ran out, then it would just rely on gravity feed. Our pump house doesn't sit that much higher than the house, so the gravity pressure would be very minimal.

Essentially, it would be like the water tower in many towns, just without the height to give it pressure.

Anthony Watson

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Reply to
HerHusband

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