A/C working properly? Cost -> lower temp?

[Tekkie®]

Like the saying: We don't have ALL the assholes; but we have a very large percentage...

[<kjpro]

Facts hurt you , Eh?

Sorry...

[Tekkie®]

Hey fundie idjit then why don&#39;t YOU fix it. It&#39;s about time you put up or shut up, morning, noon or night.

[<kjpro]

What??

I have never come across this and have a hard time imagining it. Normally if they&#39;re grossly overcharged, they&#39;ll be slugging the compressor with liquid refrigerant. That normally happens after a (so-called) service tech charges the unit with too much refrigerant. Then the unit starts making a noise, so they condemn the system.

You get the call and find that the unit is overcharged. Recover the refrigerant and fix the actually problem and then the system normally operates just fine.

So the question is, how can a system be overcharged, yet it freezes??

[Noon-Air]

I have not seen this on a TXV system, only fixed oriface/piston systems (10SEER).... Remember what I told you about putting the temp clamp on the suction as a "quick and dirty" method of indicating under/over charged systems?? Think about the ST with an undercharged system....superheat is very high(ST

75 - 85 degrees), overcharged system will be very low ...........ST below 50 and the lower the temp, the greater the overcharge. If a system is running with a 30 degree ST, you can figure a minimum of 2 - 3 pounds of overcharge on most resi systems. Also remember that I told you that the gauges are the very last thing you put to the system, after everything else is clean and right.

[<kjpro]

Not so fast Scooby Doo...

The overcharged system (if everything else is operating ok) is going to have a higher suction pressure (on an orifice metering system). On a normal system you&#39;re going to have a 70+ suction pressure (which is 41 degrees F with R-22). If the system is overcharged, the suction pressure goes up 70+ (which is 41+ F with R-22). Since you can&#39;t have a negative superheat, your suction temp is going to be 41+ F.

In order for your suction temp to be under 32 degrees F, the suction pressure has to be 58 PSI or under. That&#39;s not going to happen with a system that is overcharged, unless it has other problems.

[BobK207]

Well, if its so universally clear why are several people arguing about it?

Pretty hard to argue over the meaning of noon & midnight; my initial point :)

btw no comment about your mis-reading of my posts?

I guess not, it must hard to admit you&#39;re wrong when you are so often.

please do try to read more carefully, it might make it easier for you to reply with something that makes sense

[<kjpro]

Pretty hard to argue over a $320 electric bill.

[Noon-Air]

A normal R22 system will have a "normal" suction pressure of 60 -

70psi.....most of the scroll systems are closer to 60psi. also remember that when you have overcharge, and the temp drops on the suction line, the pressure is going to drop also. What your talking about is only a slight overcharge. With a gross overcharge, you have no superheat, and your ST is going to be around 32 degrees or lower, and the entire compressor is going to be sweating. I see a lot of that here.... "Billy-Joe-Jim-Bob" comes along and says "Its no cooling, let me throw in a couple of pounds of that freezone stuff"..... occasionally they will call him back 2 or 3 times, and the only problem was the evap coil was dirty.

Try this... take a 10 SEER system, and dump in an extra 2 or 3 pounds of refrigerant then take a set of readings, then get back to me.

[<kjpro]

Dirty evaporator... that&#39;s the OTHER problem, the overcharge wasn&#39;t the cause of the freeze up.

Grossly overcharged... is 5-12 pounds enough? I have recovered that much from a system to make it right! :-) These systems all had noisy compressor&#39;s due to slugging.

Had one the other day... 2-3 pounds extra... compressor was slugging.

Sorry, I just can&#39;t see an overcharged air conditioner freezing.

[BobK207]

That&#39;s why I never did argue about that "$320 electric bill"

I merely suggested the use of noon & midnight over 12PM &

12AM......the OP & others chose to argue about meaning of 12AM & 12PM.

Pretty much a waste of time & un-necessary if noon & midnight are used.

[Noon-Air]

And your pretty much a waste of my time

Welcome to my killfile

[<kjpro]

Sorry that you&#39;re confused with the facts..

If someone can&#39;t comprehend this ladies post, they sure as hell can&#39;t help her!

[BobK207]

Oh no! Not the ultimate insult! You&#39;ve kill filed me...my feelings are SO hurt.

[BobK207]

Actually I&#39;m not confused with the facts but your replies often do confuse me because they just don&#39;t follow.........

that would be lady&#39;s not ladies ....got the moot vs mute thing down yet? checkout dictionary.com

her!

[BobK207]

Oh no! Not the ultimate insult! You&#39;ve kill filed me...my feelings are SO hurt.

[<kjpro]

I&#39;m sorry that you can&#39;t keep up with me... no wonder you post crap!

[carie_r]

Would that lower the temperature of the air coming out of the register? It would make sense. Can he adjust that from the inside unit? It not - then he didn&#39;t. If he did, that was pretty underhanded (to make it &#39;look&#39; like it was working).

[BobK207]

Keeping up with you is NO problem but is somewhat of study in illogic

.....I&#39;m waiting for you to tell me the "help" you provided to the OP and to accurately read & interpret my posts.

Most of your replies have been total "non sequiturs" or highly selective editing / responses but then I realize you do what you can so I should cut you some slack.

oh, that&#39;s right, my apology....... here, in case you lost the link

or if that&#39;s too difficult keep studying (or maybe I should say, start studying) :)

[<kjpro]

Yes, slowing down the blower would lower the outlet temperature. Yes, you change the speed of the indoor blower motor from inside.