Thoughts on electricians doing their own drywall patching?

I've learned the hard way to tell my sparky to just leave the cutouts on the floor or screw them back in loosely with a single screw. Most guys in the trade carry a bag of 5-minute or 20-minute hot mud in the van, but they aren't tapers. That yellowing you mentioned usually means they didn't prime it or used too much moisture in the mix. I once had a guy try to patch a 4x4 inch hole for a junction box move using only mesh tape and no backing, and it sagged within a week. My preference is to have the electrician focus on the wiring—getting those 14/2 lines pulled through the studs correctly—and then I bring in a dedicated drywaller. A professional taper has the right knives and knows how to feather the edges so you don't see that humped-up mess under a coat of Sherwin-Williams Duration. If a sparky says he'll 'finish' it, I usually expect a level 2 finish at best, which is never going to look right in a living room with natural light hitting it.

I acutally prefer the "one and done" method for smaller service calls. Leaving open holes in a ceiling for a week while waiting for a taper isn't ideal, especally if you have blown-in insulation or pets. I’ve had guys use the "California patch" technique with some Easy Sand 20, and as long as they don't over-sand, it stays solid. If there’s yellowing, it’s likely from old moisture in the cavity or just cheap mesh tape reacting with the mud.

On my last kitchen remodel, the sparky used those metal-backed Wall Repair Patches for some 6-inch holes where he moved the switches. He didn't get it perfectly level, sure, but having the wall structurally closed meant I coud move back into the room imediately. I just had to do a light skim coat of joint compound myself over the weekend.

It realy comes down to the contract. If I’m paying a high hourly rate, I don’t want them playing artist with a trowel. But for a flat-fee rough-in, I’d rather have the house sealed up against drafts and dust. Just keep some Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 handy to seal those spots before you paint, and usually, the yellowing won't bleed through the final coat.

I'm just starting to get into DIY home electrical and this thread is exactly what I needed to see! It makes a ton of sense that a sparky wouldn't be a master at mudding. Since we're talking about making holes to run wires, has anyone here had much luck using those long flexible auger bits to pull 14/2 through finished ceilings? I'm super curious if that's a legit way to avoid the whole "patching nightmare" altogether or if you just end up drilling through a joist you weren't supposed to touch!

Back in the day, we didn't have 'hot mud' in every van. If we had to patch, we’d screw a scrap of wood lath behind the hole just to stop the draft. But truth is, a sparky with a trowel is a dangerous thing. That yellowing? prolly didn't seal the raw edges of the old gypsum paper before slapping the mud on. I always tell the young guys: your job is the copper, not the mud. If I’m pulling wire thru an old plaster wall, I leave the lath exposed and tell 'em to call a guy who knows his way around a hawk and trowel. Stick to your trade and the finish will acutally last.

If you're seeing yellowing, the guy likely didn't hit those raw edges with some Zinsser B-I-N before mudding. I’ve seen too many sparkies try to fill a deep hole with a glob of USG Plus 3 instead of a setting-type compound like Easy Sand 45. The shrinkage on pre-mixed stuff is a nightmare for anything deeper than a nail hole.

When I’m pulling 12/2 Romex, I use a 54-inch Greenlee D’VersiBIT to minimize the damage, but I still won't touch the finish work. A sparky's patch is usually just a placeholder. If they aren't using a 6-inch Flex knife and a proper backing, you’re just paying for a future sanding headache.