How I check an RV power pedestal before plugging in - the short version

I completley agree with the idea of checking the physical connections before trusting the site. I once had a unit where the lug looked fine but the internal wiring was clearly undersized for a 50amp setup, which was a big worry for me.

Beyond the visual and the plug-in tester, I always recommed using a clamp meter if you have access to one. It takes an extra minute, but checking the actual amperage draw of the pedestal when you are parked can tell you a lot about the quality and age of the connection. If a 30amp circuit is running at only 10amps, it might mean the connection is loose or the wiring is degrading, even if it looks neat.

I've found that many older park pedestals are installed into concrete blocks that are prone to heat expansion, which causes those intermittent hot spots. Always ensure the main feeder cable hasn't been kinked or pinched when it enters the pedestal box, as that stresses the internal terminals over time. When you open it up, take a quick look at the entry point where the power comes in from the ground.

I'm still pretty new to all this electrical stuff, so I'm still trying to figure out the safest ways to check these things. I haven't looked inside many pedestals yet, but when I do, I always check the outer plastic housing for any cracks or swelling. It feels like even if the wiring inside looks perfect, if the plastic enclosure is compromised, maybe water could get in somehow. It's a worry for me, expecially with all the rain. I’ve noticed some older setups where the plastic around the main connection points is brittle and seems like it could easily chip and let somthing in. Does anyone else worry about the physical integrity of the casing, or is the focus always on the wires?

I always check the main ground connection on the pedestal itself. Back in the day, the grounding rods weren't always set up right, and sometimes the metal conduit feeding the unit has just corroded right where it meets the terminal. You can think your ground is solid just because the plug-in tester shows a reading, but that often only confirms basic continuity, not that it's actually carrying the proper earth bond current. If you see any rust on that main ground bar inside, it's a red flag for me, regardless of what the fancy testers might tell you.