| >>>> No they aren't worth repairing, they are cheap enough to replace.
| >>>> If the tiles are of the double lap 10"1/2 x 6"1/2 same size as
| >>>> Rosemary tile you should be able to lift out the tile by sliding a
| >>>> trowel underneath and lift and pull down. If the damaged tile is
| >>>> nailed, take out the tiles above until you can access the nail.
| >>>> Single lap interlocking tiles, you just push the two tiles above
| >>>> and lift out the damaged tile, then after replacement of the new
| >>>> one, put a trowel under the ones above and with the palm of your
| >>>> hand on top of the tile just pull down.
| >>>> Dont piss about, get it done immediately, instantly. There's your
| >>>> quick answer. LOL
| >>> Keith,
| >>> I have now bought the tiles and a nail stripper so hope to have the
| >>> job done today.
| >>> However your description below has me confused:
| >>> "then after replacement of the new one, put a trowel under the ones
| >>> above and with the palm of your hand on top of the tile just pull
| >>> down"
| >>> Did you mean "push down"? i.e. ensuring that the nails in the
| >>> tiles above are reseated?
| >> Cut
| >> You don't use a slate rip on tiles. a slate rip is for either cutting
| >> through copper, zinc or alloy slate nails to get slates out and on
| >> accessions lifting the head of a slate over the top of a lath, full
| >> stop.As Beemar says "in the wrong hands they can do a lot of damage.
| >> the statement I made about using a trowel under the tiles above, is
| >> to lift the tile as you pull the tile down over the ones below. This
| >> is on interlocking tiles.Gluing in tiles is not a good idea. Are you
| >> intending to cover the roof with some water proof coating ?.
| > Keith,
| > I now realise that the ripper I bought is redundant as the nails come
| > out easily when lifting the concrete corrugated tiles. The
| > replacement tile nibs hook over the battens and as I cannot insert a
| > nail I place mastic tacks on the lower end as security. The roof
| > has been covered with anti fungacide and now has had one coat of
| > synthetic resin based paint with another to be shortly applied.
| > thanks,
| > Beemer
| Well done, the problem you will have next is trying to get a 'broken' tile
| off that's been 'stuck' with mastic - a true builders from hell 'bodge' -
| especially if they break due to you walking on 'em to carry out the
| Generally roof tiles are not nailed at every course (every fifth is usual)
| and the courses in between these are simply rested on the battens and the
| nibs on the stop them 'slipping' and the tile lap and weight hold them
| in all but the most severe weather.
| Brian G
Well its job done. Twelve (!) tiles replaced with them having cracks or
holes. Second coat of synthetic resin based paint applied. I used a roof
ladder with hook and a security rope and belt. Thank goodness I was roped
as I had two slips on wet paint where I had earlier put down my brush. I
used a 6" brush after trying a 12" roller. The brush was actually easier
to use and gave that confidence that the paint was being "worked in".
This was a job I would not welcome repeating as it was just too much for my
60 year old wrist!