I'm hoping some one could give me a few starting points please. I'm trying to re-use 3 walls of what's left of an old brick out house to build a log store - not really wanting to knock the rest down.
With the 3 walls I was hoping to build a pent roof sloping towards the middle rear wall (i.e. no front wall where the roof at its highest. I've a load of old tiles, but currently trying to work out how to add Purlins and rafters to support these. How do you set the Purlins on the walls? And how to attach the rafter to the purlins - simply nail, joint etc?
Has any one any guidance or know of useful websites? I know it would be easier to use corrugated sheets etc, but as I say I have the tiles!!!
I'm hoping some one could give me a few starting points please. I'm trying to re-use 3 walls of what's left of an old brick shed to build a log store - not really wanting to knock the rest down.
With the 3 walls I was hoping to build a pent roof sloping towards the middle rear wall (i.e. no front wall where the roof at its highest. I've a load of old tiles, but currently trying to work out how to add Purlins, rafters & battens to support these. How do you set the Purlins on the walls? And how to attach the rafter to the purlins - simply nail, joint etc?
Has any one any guidance or know of useful websites? I know it would be easier to use corrugated sheets etc, but as I say I have the tiles!!!
Thanks,
Tim.
PS Hope this message doesn't appear x2. Don't think the last made it.
wuold help if you gave some idea as to size. Joist hangers, or joists can be cemented into a wall. For non habitable you could use garden wood or large firewood for the roof structure.
you have not told us is the dimensions or what sort of pitch you want on your roof. Also are your walls all level or are you proposing to introduce a slope in the side walls and lower the rear wall to accommodate the slope of the roof?
If you have three equal height walls, then you could start by fixing a wall plate. Then at the sides build a stud gable wall, tall at the front falling to low at the back. This could support the main front beam spanning the opening - goalpost style. If the front to rear span is deep, you could include support of another purlin into the side walls mid way along the depth.
Once you have the supporting structure there, measure and cut one rafter carefully. Birdsmouth joint at the rear wall with some eves overhang. Mitre cut at the front to leave a vertical end you can fix a facia to. Use your first rafter as a pattern to make the remainder. Nail them on (skew nailing probably). Add sarking felt (not really required from a weather proofing point of view, but it will help stop the wind from removing all your tiles when it blows into the open side of the building!) Add tile battens, and then tile. It would probably be a good idea to nail every tile as well in this circumstance.
Next decide on how you want to finish your gable stud work. You could do ply, felt/building paper, expanded metal lath and render. Or, in this application, just boarding it with feather edge planks would probably look nice.
Once tiled, you can add facia and barge boards, and bed a row of ridge tiles on along the apex at the front.
Thinking it may be easier to build a frame on the inside to take the roof load, independent of the walls. Similar to this, but mine just has brick walls:
Thinking it may be easier to build a frame on the inside to take the roof load, independent of the walls. Similar to this, but mine just has brick walls:
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