I have a room done in 4 X 8 sheets of hardboard, 1/4" thick, from
Home Depot. The "rough" side is the room side. The "rough" side
has a grain on it about like screen wire. The "slick" side is shiny.
Has anyone tried to use joint compound on the "rough" side of
hardboard to coat or texture it ?
I am concerned if the compound will "stick" as well as to drywall,
whether I should wet the hardboard before applying it ?
Thanks for any informed opinions on this...
Andy in Eureka, Texas
Informed opinion? Yes, you could skim coat it, BUT:
#1. but since it's 1/4" thick, it'll flex if someone touches it the mud
will fall off.
#2. If you have sheetrock behind it, disregard #1.
#3. If you don't have sheetrock behind it, you are in violation of
building code. Not that i EVER worry about that, but you are advised.
Joint compound sticks to glass - it will certainly stick to the
textured side of hardboard. As others have said, the moisture from
the compound might present problems. You might use a quick drying
primer to seal the hardboard before applying the mud.
You have a bigger problem in what to do about the joints, and how much
mud will be required. It might be more effective to install drywall
over the top of the hardboard. As Steve said, depending on your
location and code, hardboard might not meet the requirements.
My thanks to all who have posted now and in the future...
I have taken a square foot of hardboard and plastered it with
When it dries, I will test it, flex it, beat it, and try to
the "stickitivity"..... and I'll try to report back here what I have
It'll take at least a day.
I don't understand why hardboard can't be used as panelling or
why it would be prohibited by code. It is not prohibited where
I live, and I'd like to know the reasoning for why some codes
would not permit it.....
Andy in Eureka, Texas
Wallboard has a higher flame rating. Fire propigates through it more
slowly. Hardboard does not meet code in this use. I would rip it out and
do it right. Your test is only going to test the immediate adhesion. You
also need to consider issues of mosture absorbtion and differing
You are not required to understand code requirements, or to agree with
them. You are required to conform to them. The reason hardboard is
not acceptable as a wall sheathing is because of flame spread ratings.
Georgia Pacific's site lists "wall and ceiling panels" as uses for
hardboard, but that is for paneling which is required to be on top of
plaster or drywall to meet code requirements.
There are hardboards that meed the flame spread rating requirements,
but unless your product is marked as such, it doesn't.
I agree that the BEST course would be to remove the wallboard and
install new drywall. The hardboard should come down in whole sheets.
If you insist on texturing the hardboard then Liquid Nails the joints as
flat as possible with a putty knife. Roll the entire surface(s) with a coat
of KILZ. Mud texture. Paint.
Dave in Houston
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