You were not specific. Snapped off what, the screws or the bits?
If you snapped off either I would have to guess your torque setting is
set too high for the strength of the screw. The bits typically are
hardened. Should be set to stop when screw head has reached flush with
the material you are attaching or just below if it's drywall.
Knowledge is like money, the less you talk about it
the more people assume you have.
The main company involved in replaceable screwdriver tips is Apex.
Apex is owned by Cooper industries.
Quotation from their site:
Apex offers a choice of three heat treat hardness levels in many
of our screwdriver bits to match the application. These heat
treats are specified by a letter suffix as follows:
X - Hardest heat treat in the industry
I - Intermediate hardness
R - Lowest hardness
Our experienced staff can help in selecting the best heat treat
for your particular application.
Apex bits & sockets last ten longer than most of our competition.
If you really want to know more:
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
According to this reference, the bits I've been snapping off are the
small-diameter "limited clearance" phillips bits. They are smaller diameter
apparently for no reason other than to allow access in restricted spaces.
Now I know...
Ain't USENET great?! (Chinese spam, 2-party bickering, and "Google Is The
Answer" 'bots, notwithstanding...)
replying to Esther & Fester Bestertester, 404unimog wrote:
I think this will clear things up. The reduced shank and the smaller tip size is
there to reduce the chance of tearing the paper or reaming the paper from around
the tapered screw head. if the screw is set to deep or the paper tares that that
reduces that screws hold strength x 65% or more even after finishing
Plus remember paper tape is used to bond two sheets together for strength and
fire proofing as well
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