P2R phillips bit -- what is it?

[SteveB]

Full of it today, aren't we?

I did once think I was perfect. I never want to be that sick again.

Steve

[SteveB]

It is if you don't know dick and are trying to evade the subject.

Steve

[Esther & Fester Bestertester]

According to this reference, the bits I've been snapping off are the small-diameter "limited clearance" phillips bits. They are smaller diameter apparently for no reason other than to allow access in restricted spaces.

Now I know...

Thanks, DanG!

Ain't USENET great?! (Chinese spam, 2-party bickering, and "Google Is The Answer" 'bots, notwithstanding...)

FBt

[Tekkie®]

Robert Allison posted for all of us...

Yup the r stands for reduced shank - the shank is only as wide as the wings while a reguler bit is the 1/4 hex size.

[404unimog]

replying to Esther & Fester Bestertester, 404unimog wrote: I think this will clear things up. The reduced shank and the smaller tip size is there to reduce the chance of tearing the paper or reaming the paper from around the tapered screw head. if the screw is set to deep or the paper tares that that reduces that screws hold strength x 65% or more even after finishing Plus remember paper tape is used to bond two sheets together for strength and fire proofing as well

[404unimog]

replying to Charlie Bress, 404unimog wrote: I think this will clear things up. The reduced shank and the smaller tip size is there to reduce the chance of tearing the paper or reaming the paper from around the tapered screw head. if the screw is set to deep or the paper tares that reduces that screws hold strength x 65% or more even after finishing Plus remember paper tape is used to bond two sheets together for strength and fire proofing as well

And also as stated The tip don't ream the screw hole so wide when counter sinking into wood

[cazanjc]

replying to Esther & Fester Bestertester, cazanjc wrote: PR #2 stands for Phillips reduced #2 ... professional drywall screw bit for Better fit, less slipping and stripping, faster driving SPECIALIZED DRYWALL SCREW BITS with slightly reduced head size for tighter fit and NO-SLIP, NO-STRIP GRIP

[Pssst3]

replying to Esther & Fester Bestertester, Pssst3 wrote: A standard cross-head bit is much larger in diameter than the recess in the head of the fastener with which it is to be used. A PR bit is smaller (R= reduced) diameter, intended for applications like drywall installation where it's desirable to have the fastener sunk slightly below the finished surface. They are normally used with a specialized holder that holds the fastener and helps to limit the fastener's driven depth. The reduced diameter does what the original Phillips bits did with the non-ISO fasteners, which is to cam out. If a new design ISO-ph bit were used with drywall, it would be possible to drive the screw completely through the drywall.

[Malcom]

replying to Esther & Fester Bestertester, Malcom wrote: I?m in construction, and recently found these PR2 bits. I love them! They fit snugly into the screw and I don?t have them pop out nearly as often as the standard P2. I?ve used them in everything from draywall screws to wider set brass toilet flange screws.

[Tekkie®]

Malcom posted for all of us...

datz nize

[GARY HOLMGREN]

I'm not an "expert" but have used many, many driver bits and have been looking for P2R bits locally but unable to find any. Apparently a big box store 14 miles away has a few but driving fuel would triple the cost. I'm doing some sheet rock installation using drywall screws. I knew regular P2 bits DO NOT WORK WELL with drywall screws as if there is much resistance to driving them, the bit will cam out, even applying a lot of force to the driver and keeping it square with the screw. I gave up on P2R's and bought a 5-pack of "Big Yellow's" with depth control collar, specifically for driving drywall screws and theoretically controlling the depth so that the paper skin is not 'ruptured', or broken thru by the outer edge of the screw head. If this occurs, you have essentially lost all holding power---drive another screw next to it. I looked at the driver bits inside the collars as best I could see and they looked quite "pointed" for Philips driver bits so I didn't think they were P2R's, but figured I'd try them. As soon as the screw head was near the paper and then barely making contact with it, the driver would cam out of the screw head. Drywall screws seem to be made of fairly decent steel considering where they are made and I discovered they pretty much trashed the gripping power of the driver bit, even with minimal cam out. I was very disappointed. I believe if the bit inside the collar were a P2R (Reduced) bit rather than a regular P2 bit, it would work much better. The "Big Red" power tool company's comparable item looked just about identical so I figured it was a toss up. I only had one older, rather beat up P2R bit available but I switched to it, and along with it used some of my "screw grabbing" valve grinding compound lightly on the bit. It worked fantastic and I had no problem controlling the depth of the driven screw using an inexpensive cordless drill from a large importer of made-in-China tools. Differences between P2 and P2R driver bits as far as I can deduce are: P2 - Seems to be slightly more pointed, i.e., a narrower angle on the 4 blades, plus more pointed and perhaps longer such that it may 'bottom' in the screw head slightly early, thus reducing the blade-into-screw-head-grooves slightly? P2R bits seem truncated, or shortened slightly at their tips (leaving a much more blunt, squared-off point) such that they don't seem to 'bottom' into the screw head. Therefore, more of the blades, which seem to be cut at a slightly wider angle, make contact with the matching grooves cut into the screw head for that purpose. My experience is that they grip drywall screws much better and are therefore much less likely to cam out (slip in the screw head which bungys up both the screw head and typically the driver bit also), particularly when driving screws into old, hardened Doug Fir studs and joists. I still prefer to touch a dab of abrasive compound to the bit about every 5 screws for insurance. A product called Screw Grab used to be available for that purpose but I can't find it anymore, so just bought a small tube of valve lapping compound which seems to work just great. Main thing is keep the driver straight in line with the screw.

[Ed Pawlowski]

So you are doing a home project with drywall, paint, trim, and probably a bunch of other stuff. Probably costly. A 28 mile round trip is maybe a gallon and a half of gas, about $3.

Add another few bucks and take your wife out for coffee along they way and enjoy some time together. Then do the job the right way.

[RandyThomas]

No. Searching for uses and materials are completely different. Fuck Steves.