Re: KP2009MAY20 SUBS#20: HOLY GRAIL! REINFORCED-CONCRETE PANELS

KP2009MAY20

> SUBS#20: HOLY GRAIL! > REINFORCED-CONCRETE PANELS > > Ferro-concrete yachts are amazingly strong. > Yachtsmen love to brag that they hit a rock, > and broke it. =A0A good inch-thick concrete > hull has many layers of wire mesh, so it's > close to half steel! =A0No wonder it breaks rocks. > > We have easy-to-make fired-clay/ceramic, > concrete, and rubber molds to cook our > milk-jug/HDPE#2 plastic panels in. > > You could cast concrete panels in > clay or concrete molds, but I don't > think you could get them out easily!

sand casting is used for that. you use stamps to make a design or shape the wet sand. then you tilt them up on one end and hoist them into place vertically..

on larger commerrcial tilt up buildings these are 8" or more thick, 20 or 30' long and 10 to 20 feet wide wide and weigh many tons. they are poured with one end in the cleat cast into the building slab, then the far end lifted with a crane..

these are also poured in a thin layer of sand, or with humps in it to shape the wall, laid with rope often, or various kinds of decorative stone.

its called 'tilt up construction' as you have seen comonly no doubt.

what you are doing is a lot smaller scale. with smaller panels on a one story structure two or three men could do the tilt up,

Most comon concrete strenthener is fine silcone.. but its expensive, not cheap at all. its used only in rare cases. carbon fiber would be about the same.

for house panels there is very little load. You would use just plain

150 lb concrete and only half an inch thick, with chicken wire.,, in the wall panels (as you mention in tennis type rackets) there is no stress fatigue or progressive cracking of the wire.. thats been established.

Myself Id make the panels half inch thick. then spray on an inch of urethane foam, then erect it while its light. when erected Id overspray the engiire sructure with half inch of stucco,

and hand trowl for a finish or whatever,

that covers all the sins with inperfect fit etc. allowing for very fast construction,

The cement hull boats are built with one or two layers of 1/4" rebar, extra around the top edge. some use fine silicone (waste product from cutting silicon wafers in the semi conductor industry).

Corrosion is the big issue with boat hulls. and the beating they take at sea.

for house panels you have none of that.

Phil scott

> Let me know if it works for you! > > However, the high temperature > silicone rubber mold would also > make a wonderful concrete mold, > because you can get it off the > new panel after it sets up. > > Use the same mold for either > plastic or concrete panels! > > Ain't that convenient! > > You can still use your wire mesh > to make fantastically strong panels > of ferro-concrete. =A0Drape as many > layers in the mold as you want. > Roll the layers of mesh together > to make super-tubed framing edges. > > Or use rebar if you like it better. > Fill the mold with concrete. > Now you've got a super-strong > waterproof and FIREPROOF panel! > > You could build high rise fireproof > buildings with panels made in your > back yard, or your parking spot! > > You just need the mold itself, > plus concrete, wire/mesh and water. > > A concrete mixer and a vibrator > to eliminate voids would help a > lot, but may not be essential. > > They can be gasoline > powered, so we still have > > NO ELECTRICITY REQUIRED. > > Ain't that convenient! > > According to my construction > consultant for fortune 500 > companies, the latest thing > in reinforced concrete is not > big pieces of steel, but > micro-fine carbon powder! > > The same progression that ocurred > in thermoplastics has happened in > concrete? =A0In the early 1980's > fiberglass racquetball racquets > were made with long continous > reinforcing fibers, like the metal > wires or mesh often used in concrete. > > The problem is, that design focuses > the stress on the outermost fibers > in the fiber-bundle. =A0After a while, > they break! =A0So the next layer in > gets stressed next. =A0After a while, > it breaks too! =A0We all got real > tired of paying $150 for a racquet, > and having it very reliably break! > > They replaced a LOT of broken racquets! > One company had a 60% return rate! Ouch! > > Finally they figured it out. > > Now fiberglass racquets are cast > with little tiny short fibers in > random alignment, rather than long > fibers wrapping the whole racquet. > > They're like short noodles in noodle soup, > not like long strings wound around a bucket. > > So the matrix flexes everywhere, but > is also supported by ALL those fibers, > which are ALL stressed as the racquet > bends. =A0Since the stress is spread so > evenly, no fibers break, so the racquet > doesn't break either. =A0Apparently, the > same principle works with concrete too! > It greatly increases tensile strength. > > Carbon micro-fibers alter > concrete so that you can > work it without crumbling. > Drill holes! =A0Tap threads! > > I've never even seen it, but I > am assured it is THE revolution > in cast concrete products, by > someone who knows his stuff good. > > You just mix carbon micro-fiber > powder into the concrete and pour. > > THAT'S ALL THERE IS TO IT! > > No rebar or wire mesh! > Carbon dust does it all! > > Replace lots of steel > with mixed-in powder! > > Ain't that convenient! > > And you get hextremely strong > reinforced concrete from your > big home-made rubber mold! > > Carbon fiber could also replace > wire mesh reinforcement in > concrete or clay molds too! > > CHEAPER! EASIER! FASTER! BETTER! > > Ain't that convenient! > > Let me know what products and > methods work best for you! > > Send me photos too! > > Even with improved workability from > the fine carbon fibers, drilling > bolt holes in concrete panels might > not be easy, and nailing or pulling > nails might well be a nightmare too. > > Don't try to nail concrete panels. > > Just bolt them together. > > Why drill holes? =A0Cast carbon fiber concrete > panels for use only with connecting rings: > no bolt holes in the face, and 12 bolt > holes around the outside perimeter. > > If you just hate > that extra hole, > PUT A CORK IN IT! > > Take a wooden SUBS panel, and drill the > 12 holes for bolts. =A0Put long greasy bolts > in it when you pour the silicone rubber. > After it sets, pull the bolts out and > peel the new mold off the wooden panel. > > Now you can put the greasy bolts back in the > rubber mold to pour your carbon-fiber concrete > panel, which will have proper holes with no drilling! > > Pull the bolts and peel off the mold > when the carbon-fiber concrete has set. > > YOU'RE DONE! > > You've got a cheap, waterproof, > bug proof, rot proof, high tesile, > earthquake proof, FIREPROOF PANEL > ready to bolt into any building from > a chicken shack to a hise-rise hotel! > > That was made outdoors > in a turd-world factory > from pretty cheap stuff > with no electricity! > > =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > EASY AS WAFFLES! > WITH NO COOKING! > =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > > Ain't that convenient! > > GOD2GO! > > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 O > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 --- =A0) > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0\\ > > DISTRIBUTION: > Newsgroups: > alt.ucp,alt.architecture,alt.architecture.alternative,alt.clearing.techno= lo=ADgy, > Reply to Blog: =93blogical thought=94 =3D net-prophet.net/blog > PERMALINK:
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