Just unboxed this LG GM90FIP and it's allready giving me a headache. The freezer part is working perfectly and getting ice cold, but the main fridge section is basicly room temperature. The digital panel on the door says it's set to 3 degrees Celsius, but when I actually put a thermometer inside, it’s not even close. We made sure to pull off all that blue plastic film from the vents like the manual says, so I don't think it's an airflow blockage issue from the packaging. I'm starting to wonder if it's a bad sensor or maybe the main board is acting up right out of the gate. It's a real pain because we're down in Mexico and trying to get a tech out here is proving to be a nightmare. We actually called customer service through a translator and they said someone would come by within three days, but then the appointment just vanished from their system for no reason. Has anyone else dealt with a Smart Inverter unit doing this? It seems crazy that half the unit works while the other half is a dud. I've tried every basic troubleshooting step I can find online, but nothing is making that top section kick on. I'm realy hoping there's some simple reset I'm missing before I have to spend another afternoon fighting with their support line again.
Why is my brand new LG ThinQ fridge room temp while the freezer is freezing?
Apr 16, 2026
Last reply: 3 months ago
5 Replies
Since the freezer is getting cold but the fridge stays warm, the cooling system itself is actually working, but the **air damper** is likely stuck or disconnected. On these LG Smart Inverter models, a small motorized door opens and closes to let cold air move from the freezer evaporator up into the fresh food compartment. If that motor is dead or if the main board isn't sending the signal, your fridge will stay at room temperture forever regardless of what the screen says.
You shold double-check that the unit isn't in **Demo Mode**, which is common for floor models. Usually, you can reset this by holding the 'Refrigerator' and 'Ice Plus' buttons simultaneously for about five seconds untill the display beeps. If the freezer is genuinely making ice, it’s prolly not in demo mode, but a reset can sometimes kick the control board into recognizing the fridge thermistor properly.
The fact that the display says 3 degrees is a bit of a red flag. On many LGs, that number is just your target setting, not the actual internal temperature. If the board thinks the fridge is alredy cold because of a faulty **thermistor** (temp sensor), it won't open the damper. It's a classic case of the 'brain' of the fridge getting bad data from a cheap sensor. Given that you’re in Mexico and having trouble with the service schedule, my advice is to stop waiting for a tech and go back to the store where you bought it. A brand new unit shouldn't have a faulty board or damper out of the box. Retailers usually have a window for returns or exchanges on defective appliances, and it’s much faster to swap the whole fridge than to wait for a local tech to order a part that might be backordered. If you're stuck with it for a few more days, try to listen for a faint humming or clicking near the back vents of the fridge section when you first plug it in. If you hear nothing, that damper motor is definitely the culprit. Don't try to force it open yourself, or they might deny your warranty claim later.
Is there any chance it's just a faulty door switch? I've heard if the fridge thinks the door is open, it won't let the fan blow air into the main section to save energy. Maybe try pressing the sensor by hand to see if the lights go off? Also, since it's a smart unit, does the ThinQ app show any specific error codes? Sometimes the app reveals stuff that the door panel hides. I’m asking becasue I’m looking at the same model and these technical glitches are making me nervous.
Another thing to check—did you guys have to take the doors off to get it into the house? I've seen plenty of these LGs where the wiring harness at the top hinge isn't seated perfectly or a pin got bent during the re-install. If the fridge fan isn't getting power from that harness, the freezer will stay cold but the top will be a sauna. Pop that plastic cover on the top hinge and make sure the plugs are clicked in tight. Also, make sure it’s tilted back slightly; if it’s leaning forward, the internal air channel might not flow right.
Since you're in Mexico, are you using a heavy-duty voltage regulator? Those Smart Inverter boards are notoriously sensitive to local power fluctuations. If the voltage is dipping even slightly, the electronics can glitch and fail to trigger the fridge-side cooling cycles even while the compressor keeps the freezer icy. Also, check the gap behind the unit. If it’s pushed flush against the wall, the heat can't dissipate. These newer LGs need that breathing room or the internal sensors get overwhelmed by the trapped heat.
Check the return air vents at the bottom of the fridge compartment. People focus on the supply vents, but if the return path is blocked by packing foam or a drawer pushed too tight, cold air won't circulate. It creates a pressure imbalance where the fan can't push new air in because the old air has nowhere to go. Also, check the freezer door gasket. If it’s not sealing 100%—even a tiny gap—you’ll get frost on the evaporator coil almost instantly. That frost blocks the tiny passages the air needs to travel trough to reach the fridge section.
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