Just fixed my microwave for the price of a sandwich

I had something similar happen with my older Whirlpool, though mine was the turntable mechanism that went bad, not a switch. The lid was just clicking and the microwave was totally unresponsive once it got started. I was panicking beacuse I just wanted to reheat leftovers, but before I mess with the wiring, I figured I shold check the power leads first. Turns out, the main connector where the internal light bulb was spliced into the chassis had melted and corroded because of humidity from the counter. It was less about a $10 switch and more about a poor connection right there. I didn't have the perfect replacement, so I used high-grade solder and some heat shrink tubing to fix the compromised wire. It was surprisingly easy once I realized the problem was external to the actual operating parts inside the main unit. It took me about twenty minutes total to get it sorted. The microwave has been running fine since, and the turntable rotates without grinding anymore. Next time something breaks inside, I try to isolate the failing component or connection before assuming it's the core circuit boards. It's always frustrating spending the time to figure out the simple fix instead of just ordering a whole new machine.

I dealt with a diferent failure on my old Samsung microwave, and it wasn't the door switch issue at all. My unit just started making a wierd clicking noise about ten seconds into the cooking cycle, and then it would cut out completly, even if the power was fine. I spent a couple of days trying to fix what I assumed was a faulty magnetic door lock, but after checking the wiring harness and seeing no visible damage, I realized the problem was probably further down the line than a simple mechanical failure. It turned out the timing circuit, specifically one of the relays on the main board, had gotten pitted and was failing to maintain consistent voltage. The switch itself was fine, but the component responsible for signaling the microwave to continue its cycle was just shot. I ended up replacing the entire control board, which was a bigger job than just swapping a $5 switch, but it was the only way to make the unit run properly again. It's always hard to tell if the fault is at the input end or deep inside the circuitry. If you are seeing erratic behavior like clicking or premature stopping, you might need to check the main operational timing components instead of focusing solely on the entry switches, even if they look worn.

Same deal here, I'm with you on people junking these things over nothing. My GE had the opposite symptom, it whould run with the door open until I looked inside and saw the plastic latch hook had worn down half its length, so the switch never fully engaged. That little hook was under five bucks and just pulls out of the door frame once you get the cover off. I told my neighbor about it and he admitted he'd hauled a microwave to the curb the month before for the exact same symptom. Still bugs him.

Yeah the switch fix isn't even the scary part, it's when the switch sticks and takes the fuse with it. Mine went dead completely one day and I figured the board was toast. Turned out the bottom switch had jammed closed, which popped the internal fuse as a safety thing. New switch plus a fuse and she was back in action. Only headache was ordering the right one, there's like four different styles that all look identical. Pull the old one first and match it up.