wood glue, waterproof and cheap

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I want a * low priced* ' waterproof ' glue to glue some wood together out in the garden. Thats in all weathers, (London u.k. which means: rainy).
I went to Wickes and bought a tub of white PVA ' Waterproof ' glue. Gluing some chopsticks together overnight and then soaking them in water for an hour next morning, the glue lost all strength in adhesion. Have I been robbed, and that could not really be called waterproof or am I asking for too much?
Any suggestions on a *low priced* waterproof glue please? Years ago in the woodworking class at school we used to have pots of glue (made I think from horses hooves or something similar) that we used to heat over boiling water to get it to be soft enough to use.
Is it still possible to get this type of glue? It must have been cheap for our school to use it, but I have no idea if it's waterproof of not. Any suggestions please ? Thanks.
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If you read the directions on "waterproof" glues, most are not for immersion. Use an epoxy. There are no cheap ones, but cheap glue is very expensive when it does not work. In the US, Titebond III is one of the best regular glues, but I'm not sure if it is readily available in the UK. .
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Waterproof glue is not ment to be soaked in water but only to resist water and dampness. You might try gorilla glue, it is a expanding type glue ment for outdoors, it may solve your problem without going to a epoxy. I have an articule on outdoor glues on my web site under outdoor projects.. tips..
Randy http://nokeswoodworks.com
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johngood_____ wrote:

Practically any glue that doesn't come in the form of a water-based liquid is probably a good start.
Hot-melt glue sticks. Two-part adhesives. Anything a wooden boat builder uses.
I use powder Cascamite.
However, my absolute favourite where there are gaps to fill* is powder Aerolite. Absolutely brilliant stuff - I could tell you lots of tales of how successful it has been for me.
* eg if the joinery is a bit rough and ready.
Aerolite powder isn't cheap, at first glance. However, it keeps. Years. and Years. and Years. Rather than buying glue every year, using a little and having to throw the rest away (BTDTGTTS) - one tub of Aerolite will last until the last spoonful has been used. Which works out at heck of a lot cheaper, if you only need a little now and then.
-- Sue
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Palindrome wrote: <snip>

Nowadays that's epoxy, and nothing else. At least it is in the small boat market, things might be different on windjammers.
Cascamite and aerolite used to be used, but I think not any more.
Andy
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Waterproof PVA (which is really EVA) is only waterproof as an additive in a cement/mortar mix. I expect it says that on the tin.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
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It might have done better had you let it cure longer. But I doubt that it would have held up for long.

Yes, it is called hide glue. It is available in beads to be mixed and used as you did in high school and is also available in bottles liquid form. Hide glue is not waterproof.

The two types of glue used to make wooden boats and airplanes are epoxy and resourcinol (sp?) I think that the newer polyurethane glues are also completely waterproof, but may be too brittle for airplanes or boats which flex a lot more than most furniture.
Storing polyurethane glues after the bottle has been opened as they react with moisture in the air. So it is not economical to buy it in larger containers unless it will all be used relatively rapidly.
Whichever of those is the lowest in price will be as low as you can get I would think. There are many epoxies on the market.
FWIW the mil-spec for waterproof glue requires that the glued joint survive being boiled in water. A number of epoxies fail that test due to the temperature. For ordinary conditions, AFAIK, all epoxies are water-proof.
--
FF








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Fred the Red Shirt wrote:

That it can be steamed loose to redo the joint is why musical instrument makers/restorers like it.
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It also doesn't creep under string tension.
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On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 16:40:00 -0700, Father Haskell wrote:

It also isn't waterproof :-).
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Only a problem if you use your violin for an oar.
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I always try to avoid using adhesives outside for timber as a mechanical joint is usually possible and is probably 'best practice' What are you trying to fix together?
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On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 23:11:18 -0700, Father Haskell wrote:

But the original poster asked for waterproof glue. Check the subject line.
I realize this, like all topics on this group, has tended to diverge. I was just trying to get it back to the original request.
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johngood_____ wrote:

Not a good idea - "waterproof" glue is normally only water resistant and if you soak anything 'stuck' with it in water then it will simply come apart.

johngood.
Don't use that stuff outside - that will come apart in any 'damp' conditions let alone being soaked for days on end in the garden.
A 'cheap' glue isn't much good in these situations!
I have used Evostick Resin W (a water resistant) glue for external use, Cascamite (a powdered glue that once mixed is water resistant) and Unibond PVA to very good effect externally.
Also, if you are trying to 'stick' tanalised, other treated timber - or even Teak, you will have problems getting some glues to properly stick.
Tanner-'op
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Tightbond Type II is supposed to be water-resistant, but a quick soaking in hot water dissolves hardened glue from knives.
Polyurethane glue is waterproof. I have cellar window casings I set in block ten years ago with Pro-Bond (Elmer's brand) that look like I glued them in yesterday.
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Can not define 'low price' for you, but Cascamite is available through Amazon UK (6 for a tub) - this is resorcinol based so should be fully waterproof as it cures chemically, there are likely to be other suppliers and some years ago I bought a smaller tub (local hardware store I believe).
I have recently used one of the waterproof Polyurethane glues in a tube for rough exterior work - still seems glued together 1 year later.
Wessex resins in UK sell formulated epoxy and possibly resorcinol types - not sure on the size of pots sold, but used to be a good company from previous trade comments I understand.
Regards,
Bryan
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johngood_____ wrote:

Think nail.
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HeyBub wrote:

HeyBub,
Think rust!
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Tanner-'op wrote:

SS?
--
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dpb wrote:

Godwin?
-- Sue
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