I want a * low priced* ' waterproof ' glue to glue some wood together out
in the garden. Thats in all weathers, (London u.k. which means: rainy).
I went to Wickes and bought a tub of white PVA ' Waterproof ' glue. Gluing
some chopsticks together overnight and then soaking them in water for an
hour next morning, the glue lost all strength in adhesion. Have I been
robbed, and that could not really be called waterproof or am I asking for
Any suggestions on a *low priced* waterproof glue please? Years ago in the
woodworking class at school we used to have pots of glue (made I think from
horses hooves or something similar) that we used to heat over boiling water
to get it to be soft enough to use.
Is it still possible to get this type of glue? It must have been cheap for
our school to use it, but I have no idea if it's waterproof of not. Any
suggestions please ? Thanks.
If you read the directions on "waterproof" glues, most are not for
immersion. Use an epoxy. There are no cheap ones, but cheap glue is very
expensive when it does not work. In the US, Titebond III is one of the
best regular glues, but I'm not sure if it is readily available in the UK. .
Waterproof glue is not ment to be soaked in water but only to resist
water and dampness. You might try gorilla glue, it is a expanding
type glue ment for outdoors, it may solve your problem without going
to a epoxy. I have an articule on outdoor glues on my web site under
outdoor projects.. tips..
Practically any glue that doesn't come in the form of a water-based
liquid is probably a good start.
Hot-melt glue sticks. Two-part adhesives. Anything a wooden boat builder
I use powder Cascamite.
However, my absolute favourite where there are gaps to fill* is powder
Aerolite. Absolutely brilliant stuff - I could tell you lots of tales of
how successful it has been for me.
* eg if the joinery is a bit rough and ready.
Aerolite powder isn't cheap, at first glance. However, it keeps. Years.
and Years. and Years. Rather than buying glue every year, using a little
and having to throw the rest away (BTDTGTTS) - one tub of Aerolite will
last until the last spoonful has been used. Which works out at heck of a
lot cheaper, if you only need a little now and then.
It might have done better had you let it cure longer.
But I doubt that it would have held up for long.
Yes, it is called hide glue. It is available in beads
to be mixed and used as you did in high school
and is also available in bottles liquid form. Hide
glue is not waterproof.
The two types of glue used to make wooden boats
and airplanes are epoxy and resourcinol (sp?) I
think that the newer polyurethane glues are also
completely waterproof, but may be too brittle
for airplanes or boats which flex a lot more than
Storing polyurethane glues after the bottle has
been opened as they react with moisture in
the air. So it is not economical to buy it in
larger containers unless it will all be used
Whichever of those is the lowest in price will be
as low as you can get I would think. There are
many epoxies on the market.
FWIW the mil-spec for waterproof glue requires
that the glued joint survive being boiled in water.
A number of epoxies fail that test due to the
temperature. For ordinary conditions, AFAIK,
all epoxies are water-proof.
Not a good idea - "waterproof" glue is normally only water resistant and if
you soak anything 'stuck' with it in water then it will simply come apart.
Don't use that stuff outside - that will come apart in any 'damp' conditions
let alone being soaked for days on end in the garden.
A 'cheap' glue isn't much good in these situations!
I have used Evostick Resin W (a water resistant) glue for external use,
Cascamite (a powdered glue that once mixed is water resistant) and Unibond
PVA to very good effect externally.
Also, if you are trying to 'stick' tanalised, other treated timber - or even
Teak, you will have problems getting some glues to properly stick.
Tightbond Type II is supposed to be water-resistant,
but a quick soaking in hot water dissolves hardened
glue from knives.
Polyurethane glue is waterproof. I have cellar window
casings I set in block ten years ago with Pro-Bond
(Elmer's brand) that look like I glued them in yesterday.
You did not specify the metal type did you?
There are stainless steel, galvanised, sheradized, copper, brass, zinc
plated, steel and iron nails - not to mention the range of screws - but it
is presumed that as the OP wanted to 'glue' something together - then nails
may not be an option!
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