Greetings and Salutations.
On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 22:04:34 -0700,
nospam firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
most nailing...the closer you are to an edge the greater
the chance that a chunk will split out (especially with
So...the answer is "yes...if you nail in the
wrong place". Otherwise...probably not.
I would suggest the porter cable da250, myself,
as it is quite a well made system and not too expensive.
However, if you only have to shoot a few finishing nails,
perhaps a Harbor Freight junker would do fine too...and
would cost you a lot less.
MDF doesn't have "grain". It won't split.
Before someone jumps on that statement, The wood fibers are not aligned in
one direction as they are in wood, consequently, they will be less likely to
MDF may not split in the literal sense but it will split. As stated, if
you get near an edge the effect will be the same as splitting. I've had
it happen with 16 gauge finish nails.
Stephen M wrote:
Greetings and Salutations...
On Fri, 16 Jan 2004 10:18:58 -0500, "Stephen M"
be better to say "blow out". I have had a number
of times where the pressure of the nail going through
the fiberboard caused the edge to bulge, if the nails
were too close to the edge of the board, or too big.
nospam email@example.com wrote in
fairly large hole that the 15ga will leave. I assume you're painting it so
you can fill it with minimal problems. I usually try to use my 18ga nailer
with 2" brads and a bead of caulk with stuff like this. The brads really
just hold it in place while the caulk dries. I've found this method to be
solid but not so permanent that it can't be removed with minimal damage to
the wall. Really, if you're painting, it doesn't matter too much which
If you use caulk use painter's caulk (it will be labled as such). Quick drying
spackle works well, work in with your finger & lightly buff off the excess.
Drywall compound will also work if you've got some of that around, apply the
same as spackle.
Cut the tip as small as you can & apply a dab to the nail hole, clean off
excess with a lightly damp sponge & let dry.
All of these may shrink a bit so may require a 2nd coat.
Silicone is always a PITA, best way I've found is to apply slowly & steadily
with as small a tip opening as possible for the job. Clean up with mineral
spirits befoe it has a chance to set. A fingertip dipped in the MS is great for
smoothing out the bead.
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms up later,
the damage remains.
Sounds more like you are saying how to use caulk to fill nail holes.
I was curious how the poster mean to use 18ga brads and caulk to
fwiw- my best looking silicone job was done w/o using a finger.. just
run a steady bead and dont touch it! I'd like to find out who did our
baths in our 1st home. Man.. they laid a perfect rouded bead.. like
it was 100% automated.
On 17 Jan 2004 18:28:12 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org (Scott Brownell)
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