Don't need Type III unless you need the lower temperature chalk point or
the water resistance. It's roughly double the price of yellow glue.
Never used the Garrett Wade product so can't compare, but any
good-quality yellow aliphatic is plenty strong enough for virtually any
woodworking. "Ol' Yeller" from Woodworkers' Supply is somewhat less
expensive and every bit as good as the name brands as near as I can
tell, but there really isn't much cost differential unless you're into
<Never> for ordinary woodworking unless absolutely mandatory for fullwaterproof would I <ever> use a polyurethane. (And, if you must, there
are at least a couple other brands of the identical product cheaper than
Why would you "never" use a polyurethane glue?
It's strong. It's fast but not too fast.
The squeeze out is easily removed.
It's waterproof so if a grandchild spills a drink on it without you
noticing, the joints don't fail (the finish may be damaged, though).
It ain't that expensive. My gosh, it's peanuts compared to what we
spend on other woodworking tools and supplies.
Because it is over priced and under peckered.
You will never find that crap on a good boat.
If you need a gap filling adhesive that is also water proof, use epoxy
with micro-balloons as a filler.
That won't fail when you really need it.
Why would you use polyurethane glue for a gap-filling application,
since it is specifically *not* a gap-filling glue?
"We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and bring
something to kill"
I wouldn't use the stuff on a bet; however, that is being a smart alec
and not answering your question.
To the best of my knowledge, Gorilla glue is an expanding product that
supposedly will fill gaps, intensional or otherwise.
Maybe it isn't intended as a gap filling product, but it is very
tempting to try to use it for one.
IMHO, based on the selling price structure of Gorilla glue, it is a very
poor value when compared with epoxy and some low cost fillers on either
a cost or performance comparison.
Greetings and Salutations....
On Thu, 03 Mar 2005 09:01:13 -0800, Steve Knight
Hear, Hear! (of course this IS the sort of thing
I would expect to hear from a maker of high-end tools *smile*).
There are a number of places were it is pointed out that
the foam from poly glues have little or no structural strength...and,
frankly, when I have used them for "gap filling", I find that I don't
even like the look of the foam itself.
As for strength...I believe that the poly glues are all VERY
strong...however, unlike the "yellow" glues, it is very brittle. That
can cause problems in structures subject to strong impact.
As for what glues I use? Well, in no particular order,
Titebond II, Yellow carpenters glue, epoxy, CA, poly, and "hot"...it
depends on what I am trying to accomplish.
If I am gluing up a nice panel for a desktop, or raised panel
door, I will tend to use the poly glues. They make a very good joint,
and I have found that the foam-out does NOT soak into the wood surface
as the yellow glues can. Also, even if it does, it is pretty much
"stainable", so I can deal with the problem. ONe of the other
posters mentioned something about how it stains one's fingers. This
IS true, but, is pretty simple to deal with. Harbor Freight sells BIG
boxes of nitrile gloves for small money that are comfortable to wear,
resistant to tears and do a great job of keeping the stains off one's
If I am gluing up a bookcase with dovetail joints (for
example), I will typically use a "yellow" glue, because it has decent
open time, acts as a good lubricant for getting the joint together,
and remains slightly "springy" and better at absorbing shocks without
If I am putting handles on turning tools, I really like
epoxies (but not the 5 minute stuff). I also use it for inserting
nuts into wood for "knock down" items.
CA (Cyanoacrylate) glues are great for stabilizing punky
wood when I am turning something worm-eaten on the late, and, for
putting a good, sealing finish on things like pens and goblets.
Thicker versions work great for attaching dis-similar materials.
The other day, for example, I used a couple drops to attach a small,
plastic handle to a metal lid on a CD player to "help" get it
Hot glues are great for temporary jig bits, for
attaching stock to a faceplate for turning, and, for attaching
small bits to larger stock for running through the
shaper/router/tablesaw. If applied VERY hot, it is quite strong,
but, easy to get off the item when it is removed.
Probably a slightly too-long-winded way of saying that I
don't have a favorite glue...but find that each type has its own
strengths and weaknesses.
By the by...I also have used hide glue (in bookbinding)
and a couple of years ago, a buddy of mine picked up some white
glue that had a tack time more akin to CA glue..and VERY strong
bonding strength. That is pretty useful, although I am not sure
that the manufacturer (whose name slips my mind, but, was putting
the glue in bottles with really attractive blue labels) has
managed to ramp up production.
It's no stronger (and some things I've seen indicate it's not as strong)
than carpenter glues.
I find the squeeze out a pita -- w/ carpenter glues I can clean up
before it dries critical places and it it's an easily surfaced rough
joint, still no advantage.
I've never had any joint fail under that circumstance...I suppose
possible, but never seen it in practice.
True, but why spend twice what's needed for it?
Plus, my real dislikes--
It discolors/stains and is virtually impossible to remove from skin
It takes "forever" to set and thus requires excessively long clamping
Did I mention it's expensive? :)
That said, I was thinking after I posted I should have put a couple of
I have used it to some extent on exterior repair or similar where the
extra water-resistance was desirable and the even more expensive
two-part epoxies seemed excessive.
It is also (as someone else noted) of use for some assemblies that
require long open times for assembly (although most of those have better
alternatives imo) and mostly likely use is for location where need an
inflexible glue line such as the formed laminate same poster noted.
For "ordinary" woodworking, it just has far more drawbacks than
IMO, YMMV, $0.02, etc., ...
Fri, Mar 4, 2005, 1:31am (EST+5) firstname.lastname@example.org (Phisherman) says:
I still use Elmer's Woodworkers Glue, 90% of the time. I've always
wanted to try the "poly" glues but backed off when I saw the price and
I figure any of the glues would work. But, I've been using
Titebond II for so long, I can't remember when I started using it, or
what made me try it. But, I like the results, so don't see any reason
for me to change. I "have" used Elmers white glue, it worked, but for
whatever reason prefer the Titebond II.
I tried some poly. Once. Worked adequately, but nothing
thrilling, didn't do anything for me the Titebond II wouldn't do, as
well, or better. Besides the initial higher cost, after a not too long
period of time (very few weeks), it hardened in the tube. Nevermore,
If anyone wants to know what brand of glue to use, best way is to
just go out and buy the smallest bottles available of each you're
curious about, try 'em, and see which you like best. That way you'll
know for sure. That's probably what I did when I first converted to
Titebond. I did use I for awhile, but then went to II
Intellectual brilliance is no guarantee against being dead wrong.
- David Fasold
true for daily use it is not practical. but there are not other brands that are
as good. gorilla is the only one as much solids. plus it has no thinners and it
has a longer open time.
I tested most of them and for oily woods it was stronger then any other brand.
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
I've used it and the Elmer's (I think???) side by side and could tell no
Did not try w/ oily woods, however, granted...there could/would be an
application I didn't account for. (I retreat to my use of "ordinary",
See my other response to see at least a slight moderation on the
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