Unisaw arbor bearing replacement

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Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without removing the table top, or did you remove it first?
This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor bracket, only the arbor shaft: http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/unisawbearings.shtml
The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole arbor assembly as well.
My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.
I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings: (Amazon.com product link shortened)
Any input?
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On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 13:40:35 +0000, Spalted Walt

Well you do need to remove the top.
http://www.sawcenter.com/unisaw.htm
That might help.
Mark
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On 4/6/2013 8:59 AM, Markem wrote:

Hummmm my virus protection prevented me from going there and identified a Trojan threat.
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wrote:

What anti virus are you using? Vipre says tis ok.
Mark
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On 4/9/2013 6:55 AM, Markem wrote:

ESET NOD32 and apparently Norton caught it too. Mine submitted the threat to the software guys.
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wrote:

Honestly I do not trust Norton at all, had it seemed to miss virus' and identify harmless java scripts for an email address as a problem. Symantec is run by bankers that adds to distrust and dislike of the company.
But that said the NPE program from Norton has fix two really bad problems I had in the past.
Hopefully if Saw Center has a problem the ESET people will let them know.
Mark
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On 4/9/2013 2:49 PM, Markem wrote:

I trusted Norton but got tired of it taking control and eating up resources and then uninstalling some versions was a nightmare. I had a neighbor that is in the business build my current computer and he puts ESET on all of them. I will say that talking to them, ESET was an easy task totally unlike Norton.

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Completely agree. Tried it for several weeks and then dumped it. Like you, I got tired of it taking over my system. I'm now using Zone Alarm and am very satisfied with it.
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Let me be the first linux user to say, "Gee, I'm glad I don't have to worry about that." :)
--
There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)
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On Tue, 9 Apr 2013 21:48:03 +0000 (UTC), snipped-for-privacy@sdf.lNoOnSePsAtMar.org (Larry W) wrote:

Well with Apple running a version of linux you may have to worry.
Mark
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Actually, Apple runs a form of unix derived from BSD. They are only similar in the sense that all unix-like operating systems are similar.
--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.

Larry W. - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
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On 4/6/2013 6:40 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:

I have noticed over the years that most repairs of this sort are more easily accomplished as a bench top job rather than trying to get at nuts, washers, springs, clips, etc. inside the casing. Or maybe I just don't have enough joints in my fingers.     mahalo,     jo4hn
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On 4/6/2013 8:40 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:

I have never ever done this but here is something to think about.
I highly suspect that after removing the arbor and replacing the bearings that the blade is not going to end up exactly where it was before the bearing replacement. If you are worried about upsetting blade alignment by removing the top you may not be making things easier by not removing the top if the alignment still has to be reset.
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My anitivirus (Symantec Endpoint) did the same thing - which is why I didn't post the the complete link. I don't know if the site has recently been hijacked or if it's just a false-alarm but I've been to it many times in the past few years without any problems.
Also, while Googling "unisaw bearings" the woodworker forums (lumberjocks, sawmillcreek, etc) recommended that same link numerous times.
The link below IS safe. It's an archive of the original sawcenter instructional: http://web.archive.org/web/20120129133144/http://www.sawcenter.com/unisaw.htm
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What I'm actually more worried about is the weight of the top (I'll be doing this solo). With the wing removed I believe I can manage it. Any idea what the weight of the top is?
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On 4/6/2013 12:02 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:

It will be heavy, but that is relative. I would imagine in the 100lbs range.
But if you do pull that top off there will probably be shims at each or some of the corners between the top and the cabinet. You will want to make sure that they go back in the right place.
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With a bright flashlight and reading glasses I found 3 of the 4 large cap screws do indeed have shims, a couple have multiple shims. I was expecting thin metal shims but they appear to be some sort of amber phenolic material varying in thickness.
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On 4/6/2013 12:02 PM, Spalted Walt wrote: ...

About 250 or less...I don't recall exact dimensions but they're roughly 27" deep by 40" including wing iirc. Presuming extension is 10" that's 27x30 and if assume 1" thick on average that's just a little over 200 lb. or so.
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On 4/6/2013 12:29 PM, dpb wrote:

I think you are way over estimating, the motor and trunion will be a majority of the weight and the top is not solid, typically it is about 1/4" thick.
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On 4/6/2013 12:33 PM, Leon wrote:

A) Intended.
B) Is solid, but webbed.
OP can guesstimate as wishes from starting point if wants to get better estimate by estimating webbing fraction. Starting w/ a 1" thickness makes the ratioing easier.
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