TS Blade Changing - A New Twist

Ok I don't have a flat on the arbor so I'm stuck with one wrench and a piece of wood wedged in to get the blade off. I also tried a Quick Clamp on the blade and that works well also.
My problem is tightening a new blade on. The wedge doesn't work in the opposite direction, but the Quick Clamp does. That eliminates blades loosening when the saw is turned off and starts to spin down.
So...what is my problem? Stacked dado heads. If not tight enough, power off the saw any I get a bunch of expensive carbide clacking together. The clamp squeezes them, the wedges slip. Other than grinding a flat on the arbor ... any ideas?
TIA
Jerry
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Get a pine 1x2 furring strip about 2 feet long. Stuff about 6-8" down into the saw, leaving about a foot & a half sticking out as a lever handle. Pull on the handle and jamb the first 2" or so of the 1" side into the dado blades. You want the teeth to pierce into the wood. The pivot point at the saw top will also bite into the wood. This will hold the dado blades from turning in either direction. I've used this method for years and never had any problems with spinning or breaking teeth off.
Don't use hardwood as the blades will not bite into the wood and will just slip.
Art

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It sounds to me like your table saw doesn't have a very good grip on the blade when you tighten it.
I have a Jet supersaw with a fairly new Forrest dado set. I take a shop rag and grasp the dado set with left hand, then use the arbor wrench to tighten it with my right hand. Admittedly you cannot exert a lot of force this way, but you shouldn't have to if all the machine surfaces are flat and oil free. I never have a blade or dado slip when I tighten it this way.
Bob

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