Hi all... its me again.
Doing some more newbie-ish WW last night and noticed that blade on my cheap
tablesaw seems to be misaligned and not parallel to the miter slot. It is a
'Limited Edition' ( I think I now know what the 'Limited' meant). I got it
a couple of years ago and can't find the manual. I don't see where to
download one on their website either. So before I go trying to fix it by
trial and error... does anyone know if it can even be done on a cheap saw
like this? If so, can you give me any pointers as to the approach.
Also, while I'm at it, would a stackable dado set work on a cheap low power
saw such as this?
I'm not getting a new saw anytime soon so please don't bombard me with
suggestions on laying $800+ out for a new saw. :-)
I just went through this with my old tablesaw (Craftsman whatever). Mine
has a trunnion holding the driveaxle of the saw in place. I had to
loosen 6 screws underneath and wack the trunnion to get it to line up.
It seems much better now, especially with the new WWII blade instead of
maximus crappinus <LOL>.
I think you should try to find the model number before rephrasing your
question. Also, before I found my manual back, I almost orered a
replacement one on line. Sorry, I forgot the url, but search sears with
the model number and "manual".
In answer to your first question - it depends on the type and amount
of runout. If the arbor assembly isn't parallel to the miter slot,
then most craftsman saws are adjustable (usually via two bolts on the
arbor at the rear of the saw). If the arbor bolt is misaligned (i.e.,
when you rotate the blade, it "wobbles"), you can correct for small
amounts of runout by brute force (i.e., a hammer to the arbor nut).
If the runout is significant, you are out of luck.
Using the TS-Aligner (www.ts-aligner.com), I was able to reduce total
worst-case runout to 0.004, which is acceptable for my purposes. The
TS-Aligner can be purchased for about 100 bucks, I think. It is easy
to use, and makes life much easier than trial-and-error.
Assuming your saw is a belt-driven saw with a motor current rating of
problem. I have a 13A craftsman which works fine, even for dense wood
such as bubinga, without any burning or overloading - obviously, I'm
careful with the feed rate. If you have a direct-drive saw or a
flex-drive saw, then I'm not so sure.
People like Steve Knight turn out some remarkable tools with some
pretty basic, fundmental tools. Sure the dados will work; you may have
to make multiple passes.
On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 19:39:55 GMT, "Mike W."
Blade is NOT mis-aligned, the table top is mis-aligned to the sawblade
Check your owners manual, you typically will have to loosen the table
top and get the table top aligned to the saw blade
On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 19:39:55 GMT, "Mike W."
This only works with cabinet saws whose mechanical assemblies are
mounted to the cabinet instead of the top. On contractor saws and
less, you loosen the saw motor/arbor and move it in relation to the
I have an old craftsman ts. My dad gave it to me after complaining
about alignment problems. This one was built probabably 1980. Anyway
I got it working ok. I think I have the manual and could fax you what
you need. But if you look real closely under the table you will
understand what to do. Loosen a few bolts tap it into place and
titghten it up.
I used a home made rig to test for the balde being parrallel with the
miter slot. Just place a piece of wood fitted into the slot, attach to
it another at 90 degrees pointing to the blade, screw a fine threaded
brass screw in to the end of the second piece so it just touches the
front tooth on your blade. Use a round head brass screw. Now slide
it back to the same tooth in the back of the blade. (mark the tooth
to know you have the same one and turn the blade back to measure to
the same tooth.) Adjust the screw until it barely touches the blade.
The blade will ring with a distinctive tone as you pass the jig over
the blade. When it makes the same tone on front as the back, you are
That sounds like a good system, I've been fighting with a combination square
up until now and I didn't want to spend a ton of money for something I would
check once for alignment. I'll make of these tomorrow - thanks.
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