For years I used a pair of Vise Grips to hold the blade while I took the arbor nut
off. I suspect some of you did and some still do that. Then I became brilliant! I
ordered and used that orange Blade Lok thingie. That is a POS and a waste of money
IMO. It has no inside detail to hold the teeth. Apparently I must push against the
top of it for it to be effective. That did not work for me ahtall. The blade just
kept slipping inside that thing. That was the end of my brilliant relapse. Since I
suspect most of you have changed a few TS blades in your time and are using a much
better approach, I ask for your effective and safe suggestions on this matter.
My unisaw uses 2 wrenches to tighten/loosen the blade so this is not an issue
for it. This is also a non-answer to your question, but fits perfectly with most
of the posts here lately.
The old crapsman TS uses only 1 wrench and I just used a pine 1x2 as a lever
between the blade teeth and the frame to keep things immobile. I hope this helps
I've always use a screwdriver passed through one of the gullets like you do.
It's a combination blade so the gullets are pretty big. Haven't looked at a
cut off blade close enough to see if a screwdriver might fit there too.
Hmmmm, as I have the two wrench option I hadn't thought about it but.....
Seems that 2 1/4 inch holes drilled near the edge and exactly opposite each
other would allow for a 3 inch or so bolt or rod to secure the blade against
the table for tightening or loosening the blade ? I usually just jamb a 1x
under the RAS blade rather than using the second wrench.
A'yup. Got one of those as a present. I use it, but you nailed it, in that
you have to push down hard on it to grab the blade. After a coupl'a tries, I
mastered the damned thing and now actually prefer it to the
My old saw didn't have a flat on the arbor for a wrench, so I used a
Quick Grip clamp, with the rubber pads on the flat of the blade. When
the nut was tight, the grip slipped. It worked well.
My current saw has flats on the arbor, so I use two wrenches.
I went to home depot with my arbor nut (no pun intended) in tow.
Bought a shiney new box/open end combination wrench to use on the arbor nut.
I use the factory wrench to hold the arbor from turning. Arbor nuts are
kinda large, so dont be surprised if the one wrench is kinda expensive; but
it sure beats anything else Ive tried.
If you need anything more than a scrap stick to break it loose, then you are
over tightening the arbor nut. I usually use a stick under a tooth, which
is usually in the form of my zero clearance insert. What could be handier,
since you just pulled it from the table. To tighten I use nothing more than
my hand and one wrench.
I use an old leather glove and wrap it over the blade to hold it. The
old Powermatics don't have flats on the arbor for a wrench. I drop
the wrench in the glove, roll it up and store it in the Biesmeyer
front rail when I'm done with it. Always know where it is.
John, in Minnesota
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