Tear out using sliding Tennon Table


Im happy this morning to have used my new tennon head on my Robland X31 sliding table I bought a second hand tennon head only one part and flipped the piece of timber over to get the 2nd cut. I have a few questions you may be able to help with
1. What is the best way to stop tearout on the back edge of the tennon. (i've only been using a scrap piece of wood) 2. The Robland X31 has a slot mortisiser and creates round slots. Do I make the square ends of the cut the tennon shorter and round over the ends a bit to let it slip in? i.e is the gap top and bottom really a problem as long as I have a tight fit side to side?
Cheers Connor
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Connor Aston wrote:

I don't know anything about the X31 but you can generally get rid of tearout by putting a sacrificial piece behind your good piece.

You can either round over the tenon, or square up the mortise with a chisel, having a bit of a gap isn't that big of a deal though.

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I would opt for rounding the tenon vs squaring the mortise, mainly because its easier.
That Robland X31 is a intriguing contraption, never seen anything like it on this side of the pond.
Nice web site Connor, nice gallery of work too.
I'd love to visit Ireland, I've heard it is beautiful there. I'm a Murphy on my mother's side. I live in Tennessee, which has lots of natural beauty as well. Lots of wood too. :)
Take care,
RangerPaul
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Connor Aston wrote:

Why cut tenons when you can use the X31 horizontal mortiser to cut mortises in both parts and use a loose tenon. No adding tenon lengths to the tenon parts, no shoulders to get right and no tear/split out to worry about.
Check out Gerald Masgai's pages on making a four panel door using loose tenons - done on an X31. Click on "continue" at the bottom of each page to get to the next page. You have an X31 - here's a project that uses all five functions.
http://www.geocities.com/PicketFence/5276/shop/page16.html
charlie b
BTW - have you used the bullet catch strike plates for a zero clearance throat plate for the table saw?
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