I have an older Unisaw with an older Laguna large sliding table and I
believe Leon made the best choice. Though I can flip my fence to
either side, if you have a
Festool FS track saw you can't cut as accurately with out a helper on
the sliding table. If your down to the smaller pieces the incra
fences should take care of that.
I am happy with my decision. I obviously do have the track saw and do use
it to cut plywood into manageable panels.
A Laguna sliding TS would have been nice had it not been for all the trade
offs. I would have given up more features that I really wanted to have on
a daily basis for a couple of nice features that I would have used
Many new saws these days do a much better job at capturing dust than
those of 10 or so years ago. It now is common to capture the dust at
the blade and channel it to a 4" hose to the exiting dust port.
Basically the saws stay a lot cleaner inside. If you use the dust
collection set up with the over arm blade guard, the SawStop probably
does offer the best collection until you make a bevel cut. I have heard
with a bevel cut the dust escapes. I probably will not use this
particular set up so the dust that naturally escapes the bottom of the
table will still end up on the top of the table.
Until the end of April SawStop is offering. at no additional charge,
either the over arm dust collection or the Pro version of the mobile
base if you buy a Pro version cabinet saw.
My Unisawr does a reasonable job of sucking dust, except that escapes
from the top of the blade. There is a stripe on the floor[*] in front
of the saw for "secondary" dust collection, after the job is done. ;-)
[*] The basement floor is carpeted but that will soon change.
My worst offender is the Bosch SCMS. I gave up on collection and put
a hood around it. The dust falls to the bottom and into a bucket. The
SCMS dust collection port is really a horrible design. It's nowhere
near where the sawdust is aimed and there is nothing to even try to
direct it in the right direction. I like the saw but forget using it
where dust will be an issue.
BTW, I have two DCs (one small HF with a Super Dust Deputy, and a 2HP
Penn State with a trash can separator) and a couple of shop vacs. Like
yours, it seems they're always full. ;-) ...though I'm just getting
back into it.
On 4/28/2013 4:27 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I have yet to figure out how come there's more wood dust than there is
wood when I finish a project.
And if the sawdust in the dust collector and the sawdust *not* in the
dust collector were combined I couldn't get in the shop. :-(
Decades ago, somebody had the same problem. In a fit of insanity, he
glued the sawdust together, pressed it flat, and invented what we now
know of as Particle Board.
Someone else came along, put a wood grain sticker on it and thus the
flat-pack furniture industry was born.
You did well on your purchase, and if I need to change I will
definitely look at the Sawstop. I got my Unisaw used with the
sliding table, overhead guard, 51" Biesemeyer fence, mobile base,
WWII, Tenon Jig, router insert in table, and spare zero clearance
inserts for $1300. Unlike you I haven't exceeded my saws capabilities
yet. But as I get older my respect for what could happen grows. I'm
on disability from an industrial accident that taught me to appreciate
every day you get to come home. No matter how careful you are you can
be the victim of some one else's carelessness. The gentleman I got it
from was doing cabinets in a 2 car garage and had purchased European
multifunction tool for some jobs he had going on.
Sounds like you got one heck of a deal. I sold my saw for the exact same
amount but with the saw, 15roller out feed, mobile base, and throat plates.
I have been told that I got a good price for it. I continued to use it
until I sold it. Had I bought the SawStop before selling I would have been
more anxious to get rid of it. That said, I posted it with 2 pictures on
a local woodworkers club web site and about 10 days later it was gone. I
did not post until after I had decided on which saw would be the
I by no means exceeded the old saws capacity. Like you, I am getting older
and realize that regardless of how cautious I I am around a TS I can do
something that might not be safe, or some thing unforeseen can happen. The
more I use a TS the more I realize how it can get you if you are not 100%
on your game 100% of the time.
The switch to SawStop was only to decrease my chance of being seriously
hurt if I do something we humans do, make a mistake.
I've been introducing my son to my shop over the past few months building a
buffet for his dining room. A slow go as he only gives me a couple of hou
rs on weekends. The key focus for me -- outside of spending some quality t
ime with the lad -- is teaching him how to use TS, jointer, planer, BS, Dom
ino, DP, etc., safely. Lo and behold, I used the sled to cut a couple of s
hort boards and as I was drawing the sled back toward me, one of the cutoff
s caught on the blade and cracked me a good one in the chest. Nothing like
an abject lesson. Spent 10 minutes going over what occurred and what his
idiot father did wrong.
buffet for his dining room. A slow go as he only gives me a couple of hours on
weekends. The key focus for me -- outside of spending some quality time with
the lad -- is teaching him how to use TS, jointer, planer, BS, Domino, DP, etc.,
safely. Lo and behold, I used the sled to cut a couple of short boards and as I
was drawing the sled back toward me, one of the cutoffs caught on the blade and
cracked me a good one in the chest. Nothing like an abject lesson. Spent 10
minutes going over what occurred and what his idiot father did wrong.
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