Table Saw Safety

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snipped-for-privacy@windwalker.net wrote in

There was a series on tablesaw safety printed up in ShopNotes a while back.
Should I make you a pdf copy, and post it on ABPW? ;-)
Patriarch, (who is DEFINITELY joking...)
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AFTER reading your reply which gave your experience level I say "if it works for you then go ahead on". For a newbie reading this thread, please check out this stuff BEFORE you do what an "old hand at woodworking" does. There are a lot of things that can go wrong when using a table saw. Understanding which ones can hurt you and WHY may help when doing your own risk analysis.
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/KickBack1.html
Blood is not an attractive wood finish and is very hard to remove. Time spent in the emergency room and subsequent healing time is time not spent in the shop woodworking (though it could be an excuse to clean up and organize stuff)
Me, I've got a riving knife, push sticks (the GRRRIPPER is great for controling short stuff), Draw-Tite magnetic hold downs/hold against the fence - and no blade guard. I also have the TS-Aligner Jr. Delux and use it to make sure my saw blade parallels the miter slot and the fence as well. A bad set up can be a major source of grief. Better to know the set up's right than to assume it is when in fact it isn't.
Horsepower is nice, but knowledge, when used properly, is more powerful.
BTW - when a mortising chisel gets stuck in a mortise - DO NOT have your forehead (or in my case a 5 or 6 head) in it's exit path. You WILL actually "see stars". Same goes for removing a stuck tenon.
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/OOPS/OOPS1.html
Ya'll have fun - and be safe - please.
charlie b
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charlie b wrote:

Or in a few cases an old _handless_ at woodworking.
--RC
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I'm not goin'.. Get yourself one of these to help you. But YMMV. Some smaller versions even have a magnetic base. I have one on the dashboard of my truck.
http://home.mchsi.com/~lhote5/pray4us.jpg
Larry
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On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 16:46:36 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@windwalker.net wrote:

=====================================As far as I am concerned you ....are nuts...and lucky....
I always use a splitter...(although it is only a Nail tightly inserted in the zero clearance inserts I use)... yes a nail...
I purchased and installed an over head guard on my saw over ten years ago....and looking back it has been one of the best buys I have ever made.. I use it all the time .. but like the seat belts in my car.. have never needed it...
Bob Griffiths.
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I never use guards but always use the splitter. It is a homemade one. I used a brass plate with no kickback fingers. It keeps the back side of the wood from getting picked up by the teeth on the back side of the blade. max

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It was somewhere outside Barstow when snipped-for-privacy@windwalker.net wrote:

How much greenish wood do you rip ?
I often work without a splitter, but not for ripping.
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The way you are setup is VERY dangerous. The way to correct it is to put the blade on backwards and work from the other side of the saw.
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Thanks smart ass.
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Free for the taking - 2 Crapsman TS guards - 1 Delta contractor TS guard - 1 Black & decker TS guard........brand new never used. Still have all 10....true believer in push blocks though.
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On Wed 23 Feb 2005 10:46:36a, snipped-for-privacy@windwalker.net wrote in

The guard/splitter that came with my Griz was worthless. I went without a guard or splitter for a long time, then got a deal on some roughsawn white oak, and every other time I ripped a piece, it bent back and pinched the blade. Pinched it so hard one time it started squealing and I shut the thing down right quick.
After I worked the wood off the blade, the very next thing I did was make a splitter out of a piece of the rule off an old combination square. It's easy to take in and out, it's just about the same thickness as the kerf and it lines up perfect with the blade. Haven't had any problems since I did it, and I just FEEL better having it there. But if I hadn't sawn some twisty wood, I'd probably be still thinking about putting one on.
I'll be putting an overarm guard on the saw this summer but the main reason I'm doing it is for dust collection.
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How did you mount this? I've been thinking of doing something similar with my Griz 1023. If you have any comments you can pass along I'd appreciate it.
-j
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Drilled a hole in the rule, the same size as the bolt where the original guard/splitter mounted, and then hacksawed a slot in it from the bottom to the hole, so I could just loosen the nut and pull it out easy for dados etc without having to completely remove the nut and then put it back, and then remove the nut to re-install it, and then drop the nut and fish it out of the sawdust, and aw-dammit-the-hell-with-it. The slot's long enough so it can bottom out and keep itself from moving if it gets hit. I needed a washer on both sides to keep it centered with the blade. Then I fitted it and cut it off where it seemed about right.
Got the idea from a web page someplace. Lemme see if it's still around here...
crash thud shove mutter
Yeah, here it is... http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/howto_splitter.htm
He's using just a hole. I like the slot. About two hours work and zero money. Not bad for the peace of mind I get from it. :-)
I didn't put in that wooden blade guard, though.
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snipped-for-privacy@windwalker.net wrote:

You might like to look at my web site - Circular Sawbench Safety - Riving Knives.
Jeff G
--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
  Click to see the full signature.
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