Been thinking about making a jig for jointing on the table saw with a
piece of angle iron. Is a piece of angle iron more straight than a
factory edge of a piece of wood? I would think so although the
differences are almost trivial.
Maybe welding some nuts to the angle iron and using bolts through the
nuts to hold down the board. Riding the edge of the angle iron against
By the way, what is also the best way to determin the blade in my saw
is perfectly straight and parallel? WOuld a dial indicator work?
Not likely. Plywood would probably bve your best bet.
The easiest way is to simply make a test cut and look at the results. If
you are using a top quality blade in new condition you should see little to
no tooth marks on the wood if the fence is running parallel to the blade.
You can also use the dial indicator to correct the alignment of the blade to
the miter slot if necessary.
I'm getting sick of wasting my words with your stupid x-no-archive: yes
flag, but I suppose I'll answer you.
Use a nail set taped along the side of a piece of 3/4" x 3/4" scrap
wood. Just tape it so it's nice and secure and so that the sharp end
is pointing out beyond the end of the piece of wood, thus forming a
Raise the blade in your saw up high and mark one of the teeth with a
marker or a crayon or whatever. Then holding your pointy stick against
the miter fence with the point of the nail set aimed toward the blade,
slide it sideways until it almost butts up against the blade. Rotate
the blade by hand so that the tooth you marked is just above the
table-top near the back of the saw. With a good backlight, move the
nail set toward the marked tooth until it just BARELY touches it. Now
clamp the pointy stick in place on the miter fence (or else hold it
really tight against the fence with your hand so that it doesn't move
sideways at all). Now rotate the blade back toward the front of the
saw so that your marked tooth ends up just above the table-top on that
end. Pull the miter fence back toward the front until it is adjacent
with your marked tooth. If the saw is adjusted properly, the end of
the nail set should still be just barely touching the tooth. If it's
jammed into the tooth or not touching it at all, you need to realign
the trunnion. Your tablesaw manual should tell you how to do that.
If you want to find out if the blade is straight and true, use the same
pointy stick, but this time check that the nail set contacts all of
teeth as you rotate the blade around.
To finish tuning up your saw, adjust the rip fence so that it's
perfectly parallel to the miter slot, and then make sure your miter
fence is perfectly square to the slot.
At that point, assuming your blade passed the straightness test, your
saw should cut very cleanly.
Btw, if you don't trust your eyes you can hook your blade and the nail
set to a multimeter which beeps when electrical contact is made between
the two. And if you don't have a nail set, you can use a screw or
whatever, as long as it has a well-defined sharp point to it.
A nail set is a simple instrument which looks somewhat like a nail,
itself. It's used for setting finish nails without marring the surface
of the wood. Basically, you hammer the finish nail almost all the way
into the wood so that just the top of the head remains protruding.
Then you put the sharp end of the nail set into the indentation in the
head of the finish nail, and pound on the blunt end of the nail set to
get the nail the rest of the way in.
Inevitably, the nail set slips out of the nail head, thus marring the
surface of the wood, and defeating the purpose for its own existance.
You don't have to use a nail set; I just figured you might have one.
Just substitute "nail" or "screw" where I said "nail set".
I've made dozens of jigs for my table saw, all made from MDF, ply, or
scrap wood. I can true up a piece of wood better than a factory edge.
Ouch! You really want to protect your fence.
There are many methods. Not sure what is best, but the best time to
check is when you really need an accurate cut or whenever you move the
saw. Clamp a scrap piece of wood (a 2x4 a foot long is fine) to the
miter gauge, mark the top side where the blade will pass, and make a
cut. Remove the scrap and fit the two pieces together. Is it a
perfect fit? Flip one piece 180 degrees and fit them together again.
Is it a perfect fit? If both are "yes" you have a blade that is
square to the table. Next rotate both pieces 90 degrees (the mark
will be on opposite sides). If there is a perfect fit your miter
gauge is square to the blade. No dial indicator is needed.
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