I had posted recently about making a jig to joint with a table saw and ensure straight cuts. Well, no one in my local area has a toggle clamp. Would my idea with the angle iron and welding nuts to it work? (Welding small nuts to the top then using bolts through these nuts to hold the board down?) (I will be workign mostly with 12 inch and under wood right now.)
What about this?
stryped wrote: > I had posted recently about making a jig to joint with a table saw and > ensure straight cuts. Well, no one in my local area has a toggle clamp.
You have something against mail order?
Lew
Or even a couple of screws while he waits?
Stryped, I'm not sure that your going to get the answer your looking for since the advice you were given in your initial post was good advice. One thing you didn't make clear was if your table saw has no fence or if the fence it does have is not perfectly straight. If the latter, is the problem that it doesn't lock down good? Let me reemphasize that if you have the straightest fence in the world, if your saw blade isn't
1)sharp, 2)can't be made perfectly parallel to the fence or visa-versa, or 3) can't be aligned truly perpendicular to the table, your not going to be able to produce a surface on the saw that is suitable for joining to another surface. You'll end up with a weak, poorly aligned joint at best.Even, if you have a piece of angle iron or aluminum or whatever, how are you going to ensure that the edge is perfectly straight? Another bit of missing information is what width and thickness of boards are you planning on jointing? Jointing refers to mating two board surfaces along the edge grain as opposed to butting or mating the end surfaces together. Do you own a router and a straight bit? Too much missing information.
Martie
the welds will distort the angle. if you must use angle, get some that is thick enough to tap your threads directly into.
the only thing that iron lends to the jig is a level of stiffness that is difficult to achieve without a large amount of wood. you certainly don't need that much stiffness for this straightening/tapering jig, and the weight and certain disaster should the iron contact the teeth of your blade are enough to rule it out in my shop.
for kicks, try to do this entirely out of wood- no nails or screws even, just glue. make the toggle. be inventive. this is the kind of jig that you should be making as the need for it comes up, out of scraps that you have on hand. you get extra points if it works the way you were imagining it the first time you make it, and you get points off if you spend any money making it.
think about it: the basis of this jig is a straight reference edge a bit longer than the board you want to work on, wide enough to support the workpiece and stay straight while feeding it through the saw, thick enough to take the forces of clamping your workpiece to it......
You can easily make a clamp for your purpose. On your carrier board (the one which has a straight edge and upon which you are going to place the board to be straightened)...
You can modify both the stop block and clamp by using thicker stock and cutting the part that will be touching the board to be straightened at a
45 degree angle. That way, they will restrict movement both lengthwise and vertically; no need to position the clamp over the board to be straightened.-- dadiOH ____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.