Stuff at tomorrow's auction

[Jim Weisgram]

There is probably grain running somewhat side to side vs. running completely end to end. If you were to cut a new slat that was parallel to the wood grain, it would be much stronger. And of course, if you used a stronger wood, that would help, too.

[...snip...]

And then...

[...snip...]

Elmer's yellow woodworking glue vs. Titebond? Pretty comparable, really. Elmer's should be "stronger than the wood", same as Titebond. See below for some supporting data.

I am guessing Lew suggested epoxy because it is strong even when you have gaps, good when repairing cracked wood such as you have.

For some general info on strength of glues, here's a link to a test done by Fine Woodworking (the link works only if you pay for their web extras).

tested, from best to worst,

Titebond III SystemThree T80 Epoxy Elmer's Carpenter's Glue Liquid "Old Brown" Hide Glue. Moser's Hide Glue Gorilla Glue

on Maple, Oak, and Ipe. For each wood, they tested on tight, snug, and loose joints.

The Titebond III and epoxy were neck and neck througout the test, with Elmer's a close third.

In general, all the glues were within shouting distance, although Gorilla Glue had poor results on loose joints and was overall the weakest.

[Upscale]

So what, if anything *is* it good for? Mostly, although never having used it, I believed it was a effective, strong, glue. I guess I fell for the name and the advertising crapola.

[Steve Turner]

A Type 10 - very nice! Corrugated or smooth sole? Stanley never made them finer than during this era. I have a couple of Type 10s myself; most of the rest are Type

11s.

Nah; it sounds fine just the way it is. If it was "all original in the box" you'd have to put it on the shelf and look at it instead of using it! Congratulations on the nice find, and enjoy your plane (and the next one, and the next one...)

[Steve Turner]

Admittedly, the hype surrounding Gorilla Glue piqued my interest as well, but I was always apprehensive about it and only used it a couple of times in situations where I was "ok" with the possibility of it behaving unexpectedly. However, since reading the aforementioned article in Fine Woodworking I haven't touched the stuff.

[Larry Blanchard]

Boy, does he suck!

[Bill]

A salesman at Lowes pushed me to it. I haven't opened it yet.

I bought some to glue washers (one on each side) to a painted hollow wooden closet door to (hopefully) resolve the damage caused over time by a long bolt which goes through the door to hold a knob on. The hole for the bolt has wore into an oval through normal use making it "sloppy". For better or worse, I designed that solution myself.

From this thread, it seems like the epoxy may be a better choice than the Gorilla Glue. Would I be well advised to remove any paint (I was just planning to clean well)?

I'll be cutting the "washers" myself, so that I get a perfect fit, but that's another story.

By the way, thank you for all of the kind and thoughtful comments about my new plane!

Bill

[J. Clarke]

First, do remove the paint--glue and paint do not work and play well together.

Second--regardless of its adhesive qualities, Gorilla Glue foams a bit--try it on a sample and see what you're dealing with--I think you'll find that for the purpose you're describing it's going to be a pain in the butt just because you're going to have to deal with the foam-out.

[Bill]

I'm glad you mentioned that because one of the reasons I am making my own "washers" is because I need them to be very thin (and I think I can make washers just like I need in 1% of the time it would take me to buy them). From what you've said, Gorilla Glue is clearly the wrong choice, and, once again, I was led astray by an overzealous salesperson.

Thanks, Bill

[Bill]

I glued the drawer support today with epoxy and three 3" C-clamps, glued alternately, along the 5" crack. I was sort of proud of the way it looked there on the driveway resting on two C-clamps, but no one came by to notice. Without the knowledge I have learned from this forum I would not have done it nearly as well. The labor was in removing the piece (held by screws with a square rather than hex shaped opening).

Due to a little wood which has been lost, remaking the piece someday is a possibility. I'll just need a table saw and a router table and I'll need to enrich my vocabulary to talk about the wood I'll need to remove on each side of the support/slat (shaped like a "V resting on it's side"). Nothing like hand-crafting repairs to manufactured furniture, eh? On the positive side this provides motivation to get a router. I was thinking of the Grizzly 1023SLW TS which has a router table on it's extension table. Of course, seeing Mike get a "Gloat!-deal" today on his Delta TS makes me want to search for a great deal too! Never know what will show up at the "Wednesday Auction", but I haven't run across a nice TS yet--plenty of Very Old Craftsman TSs that I doubt merit the investment in a new blade. The auction basically sells "estate stuff".

I'm continuing to work towards grinding the garage floor. I spread several bags of grass seed and fertilizer and 6 40# bags of topsoil on the lawn in the last two days after hand-pulling about six 35 gallon garbage bags full of crab grass. It looked "green enough" but the crab grass bothered me. It doesn't appear to bother my neighbors on either side as much. Getting to that "empty garage floor" stage seemed like an ominous task, but I try to do "something" everyday which gets me closer. I started using a spreadsheet to manage my projects (sequence of procedures, necessary tools, and my $-outlay) and that has greatly improved my outlook. I recommend an approach like this to anyone trying to balance everything in their head (if you don't like technology, then use lots of paper). There is something satisfying about checking things off to see the progress.

Happy Labor Day! Bill

[Puckdropper]

"Bill" wrote in news: [e-mail]:

That means you've still got your clamps. In some neighborhoods, if you turn you back for a second they'll steal your clamps and leave your project sitting on cinder blocks! lol

I'll tell you a little secret... When you do get that garage floor empty, don't let it stay empty. Fill it up with stuff that's easy to move. That way, it looks full so no one fills up your empty space!

I've been doing that since I cleaned out the garage this spring. It looks much better than the "random warehouse" look. Since I don't have to wait for daylight and nice days, I've been using my table saw much more than I ever did before!

Puckdropper