??? Are you saying that levels are hourglass shaped? All I can say is that I've NEVER seen one like that and would throw it out if I did.. I'd also say that since most modern 8' levels are made from aluminum extrusions, they are a constant dimension along their length.
They're available with the metal in several thicknesses, but even the 'heavy' ones are still very light as far as total mass goes.
I suspect one could stiffen things considerably by using a two (or more) 'in parallel', i.e. in a 'UU', or 'UUU' arrangement.
As long as the stud is straight to start with, it clamps down straight. and there is 'merely' the matter of dealing with any flexing that might occur from side-stresses while making the cut. I tend to have an abundance of scraps in the sub 4' range, that are well-suited for use as temporary cross-bracing.
Years ago I took a piece of red oak, jointed it flat on the edge and put a piece of aluminum angle material on one edge. It has served me faithfully for at least 30 years. Not only do I use it to draw lines, but I also clamp it to 4 X 8 sheets of plywood for a saw guide. It doesn't get as much use as it did, I now have a panel saw. I do wood boat restorations and handle a lot of sheet goods.
Not the Borg, obviously. Saw a 2x10 at Home Depot the other day that was a perfect start for that hand carved propeller you've always wanted. No bending required.
if you are using more than 1 sheet of plywood lay one on top the other and clamp it on your marks using the top sheet as the strait edge. alow for the distance from the edge of the saw shoe to the blade when making your marks. after you cut the first side for the book case use it as a guide to cut the rest. for a book case the factory edge of the plywood should be strait enough. works for me!
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