I have a number of rough edged 8" wide planks I need to have on straight edge on. On my table saw with a Bessemer fence...is there a technique that I can create a straight sedge on one edge of the lumber ?
Thanks, TR
Nail/screw/clamp a piece of plywood/hardboard/mdf to the board so that the straight edge sticks out further than the rough edge of the board. Run the board through the saw with the straight edge along the fence.
Note that the bottom face of the board needs to be flat against the table saw. Any twist makes this a dangerous operation. This may require face jointing the board first before ripping the edge.
Chris
Attach the rough edged plank to a plank of similar length that has a straight edge (the guide piece).
Set the fence so that, with the straight edge of the guide piece against the fence, you rip just enough of one edge off the rough plank to make it straight.
Remove the plank from the guide, put the new straight edge against the fence and rip the opposite edge parallel.
Note: one method to attach the planks for the first cut is to use screws in a waste area.
Get some kind of straight edge somewhat longer than your planks. Tack, double-side tape, or otherwise attach the straight edge to one edge of the plank. Run the straight edge against the rip fence.
| I have a number of rough edged 8" wide planks I need to have on | straight edge on. On my table saw with a Bessemer fence...is there | a technique that I can create a straight sedge on one edge of the | lumber ?
Tim...
Tacking a straight board to one side of the board to be straightened sounds like a good answer for a few boards.
If you have a quantity of boards, then you might want to take a look at
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA
Morris Dovey has your answer but a cheap, quick method is a piece of 1/2" mdf(mdf is your friend) ripped down to "about" 12" or something wider than the boards you are trying to straightned out. (plywood is also a option)
Glue,screw,double tape, or what ever method you like the board in question to the mdf(carrier) and overlap the board by the amount of rough edge to be removed.
"Slowly" run the sled through the saw using the carrier against the rip fence. This will produce at least one straight edge.
TimR wrote:
These are both good suggestions and work well.
When I built my first quatersawn white oak project 15 years ago, I was quite the novice and could only mail order rough stock. So I built a sled with clamps and fired up my little 10" Ryobi planer and proceeded to surface 4 sides of 50 BF of very hard, fragrent and rock hard lumber!
When the noise stopped and all the dust settled.....including a scolding from my neighbor for making so much noise at 11:00 at night ( I work all day in a suit and tie!) I realized that paying an extra $$$ for surfaced 3 sides was well worth the extra expense.
Sure you still need to do some touch up finishing... maybe a rip or two or even some minor planing, but unless you have a professional shop with a 76" jointer and a 20" planer with a monster dust collector, it is not worth the time, effort, or hearing deficiet! And as side note, you are limited in the length of the plank you can trim with the sleds.
Happy Woodworking,
Dennis
Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworker
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One large project made a believer of me for buying S2S1E. I have a 6' jointer and a 12 1/2" planer, but I still get it surfaced unless I have a problem on getting the thickness I want for the length of the board. :-)
Make me the exact opposite.
The wood dealer I *like* the best racks and sells S2S wood. Another dealer is 20-25 extra minutes each way, but he racks it rough. I travel the extra miles.
Why? On more than one occasion, I've gone to use some S2S that I've had for a while only to find that it has moved. When I surface the wood when I'm ready to use it, I get to work with boards that are so flat, they stick to cast iron surfaces.
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