I have a number of rough edged 8" wide planks I need to have on straight
edge on. On my table saw with a Bessemer fence...is there a technique that
I can create a straight sedge on one edge of the lumber ?
Nail/screw/clamp a piece of plywood/hardboard/mdf to the board so that
the straight edge sticks out further than the rough edge of the board.
Run the board through the saw with the straight edge along the fence.
Note that the bottom face of the board needs to be flat against the
table saw. Any twist makes this a dangerous operation. This may
require face jointing the board first before ripping the edge.
1. tack a straight board onto the crooked one. Rip an edge. That's now
your true edge.
2. Or tape a long piece of angle iron to one edge to reference the rip
fence and rip the other edge.
3. Or clamp a piece of aluminum or steel channel to the fence long
enough so that the work is supported end to end throughout the cut.
Make sure you reference the more CONCAVE side to the fence.
Attach the rough edged plank to a plank of similar length that has a
straight edge (the guide piece).
Set the fence so that, with the straight edge of the guide piece against the
fence, you rip just enough of one edge off the rough plank to make it
Remove the plank from the guide, put the new straight edge against the fence
and rip the opposite edge parallel.
Note: one method to attach the planks for the first cut is to use screws in
a waste area.
These are both good suggestions and work well.
When I built my first quatersawn white oak project 15 years ago, I was quite
the novice and could only mail order rough stock. So I built a sled with
clamps and fired up my little 10" Ryobi planer and proceeded to surface 4
sides of 50 BF of very hard, fragrent and rock hard lumber!
When the noise stopped and all the dust settled.....including a scolding
from my neighbor for making so much noise at 11:00 at night ( I work all day
in a suit and tie!) I realized that paying an extra $$$ for surfaced 3 sides
was well worth the extra expense.
Sure you still need to do some touch up finishing... maybe a rip or two or
even some minor planing, but unless you have a professional shop with a 76"
jointer and a 20" planer with a monster dust collector, it is not worth the
time, effort, or hearing deficiet! And as side note, you are limited in the
length of the plank you can trim with the sleds.
Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworker
One large project made a believer of me for buying S2S1E. I have a 6'
jointer and a 12 1/2" planer, but I still get it surfaced unless I have a
problem on getting the thickness I want for the length of the board. :-)
Make me the exact opposite.
The wood dealer I *like* the best racks and sells S2S wood. Another
dealer is 20-25 extra minutes each way, but he racks it rough. I
travel the extra miles.
Why? On more than one occasion, I've gone to use some S2S that I've
had for a while only to find that it has moved. When I surface the
wood when I'm ready to use it, I get to work with boards that are so
flat, they stick to cast iron surfaces. <G>
TimR (in mJDQg.532$tO5.100@fed1read10) said:
| I have a number of rough edged 8" wide planks I need to have on
| straight edge on. On my table saw with a Bessemer fence...is there
| a technique that I can create a straight sedge on one edge of the
| lumber ?
Tacking a straight board to one side of the board to be straightened
sounds like a good answer for a few boards.
If you have a quantity of boards, then you might want to take a look
at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/BoardSled.html - works for me.
DeSoto, Iowa USA
Morris Dovey has your answer but a cheap, quick method
is a piece of 1/2" mdf(mdf is your friend) ripped down
to "about" 12" or something wider than the boards you are
trying to straightned out. (plywood is also a option)
Glue,screw,double tape, or what ever method you like
the board in question to the mdf(carrier) and overlap
the board by the amount of rough edge to be removed.
"Slowly" run the sled through the saw using the carrier
against the rip fence. This will produce at least one
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