I'm new to woodworking, so please bear with my obvious ignornace . I recently needed a straight edge to rip stock away from the table saw, I would also like to use it as a guide for hand router, etc.
So I go to Lowes to buy a Johnson 8ft straight edge for $20. It's two 4 ft sections that uses a joining plate slipped into the two pieces to make the
8ft length. All I can say is WHAT A PIECE OF GARBAGE. You could never be sure it was straight because of all the play there was every time you put the two sections together. I tried using my four foot level to "true" it up, but that seemed like the blind leading the blind since there was no guarantee the level was straight all the way its length.
So, my question is where (and how much $$)can one get a reliable straight edge from 4 to 8ft in length?
Great article Joe, very insightful (and now I know what "lapping" is). The problem I see (for me) using this method is that I only have access/capability of using hardwood for the SEs... I'm sure over time the wood-made SEs will wear and the edges no longer straight. I would prefer getting something off the shelf for now to get my work back on schedule. But great article nonetheless, thanks!
Now let's imagine that I don't have 50 hours to invest in making my own straight edges. Any other suggestions? I'm not the OP, but I have my eye out for one as well.
This all depends upon how accurate you need to be. Might I suggest that wood does not require a really accurate straight edge. If that is so, a straight piece of bright steel bar may do or a piece of extruded aluminium of an appropriate section. The larger the section, the more stable the straight edge. Don't try to fabricate one though. Any welding will distort the beam. Try a local metal stockist. You may be able to find a used one. If you can find a company that uses a calibrated straight edge, they most likely buy a new one every year as it's cheaper to do that than have the old one retested. Try
Bingo Bob, that's about what I had in mind. It's nice to know you can get a one piece 8-footer for about $99 (as opposed to spending $300 - 500 for a precision straight edge from Starret, etc).
Thanks again.
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If the wrap gets in your way, go to Amazon.com, then tools and hardware,
I think you expected the wrong thing from this straight edge. Its designed to be clamped into place for guiding a router, handheld saw, etc. The idea is that if you need some fine adjustment, you'll take a straight edge standard and lay it along the joint of the Johnson guide, then clamp it down. Using any kind of hand held guide for hand held tools puts you in the ball park of "good enough" for cutting sheet stock in construction carpentry or cutting it down to size for later use with more precise tools.
Appreciate the comments Bob, but no, I wasn't expecting too much from the Johnson guide. My big beef was that it was two pieces in order to rip a 8ft cut. And if you saw the way the two aluminum pieces butted up end-to-end you would laugh at how badly they were machined. (I'm slowly learning that everything at HD and Lowes is good enough for a homeowner that doesn't know any better.) If I needed to carry around a "straight-edge-standard" just to "straighten-out" my straight edge every time I needed it, then it kinda defeats the purpose of having a "straight edge"...lol!
Nope, all I was looking for was a reliable one piece 8 ft straight edge that would allow one to make smooth cuts with a skil saw or router. But again, the insights and comments are appreciated, I'm here to learn like everyone else.
Oh, I know more about the Johnson, than you might realize. I own one. Your comments made me think about how I have used it in the past and why I think its a useful guide. The keyword here is "guide". Its shaped just right for clamping down with small C-clamps and using to provide a guide for your saw or router. Its stable and smooth and does that job just perfectly. That's something to consider - smoothely guiding a 2-3 HP handheld saw or router. You need something that is sturdy and thick enough that you can safely press the whirling dirvish against it with confidence.
Last year I made some heavy duty shelves for my garage that required routing a bunch of 3/4" wide slots in a bunch of 2x4's. These slots needed to line up reasonably well, so I clamped them together in groups of eight with pipe clamps, clamped down the Johnson straight edge and routed away. It was perfect. Judging by your comments, I assume you did buy one. Its not obvious in looking at one on the shelf that there are hold down screws to make sure the two pieces stay together during the job.
When I cut sheet stock, I always measure from the factory straight side of the plywood or whatever at multiple points and mark it, then lay down the straight edge along those marks and clamp it down. In fact now that I think about it, using a "straight edge standard" to line up the Johnson is something I may have done once - but that is not how I really use it. The other thing - I use the heck out of 1/2 the Johnson. Would I want a one piece 8 foot? Yes, but not without having a shorter version to go with it.
You've received all kinds of information in your query. That's what I like about this conference. It arms you with facts, viewpoints and information with very little BS so you can make your own decision.
Check the saw guide from Penn State Industries. I think you can get it from Amazon also. Its an angle aluminum thing with a carriage that you clamp/screw to your saw. It runs on roller bearings. Looks nice, ~$100.
> If the wrap gets in your way, go to Amazon.com, then tools and hardware,
You'll love it, I've had mine for 3+ years, as well as the lighter 36" &
50" models. Before that I used a piece of 1/4"x3" steel flat stock that I had a machinist true up for me on one edge. I still use it but only as a straight edge for when I'm scoring long pieces of laminate.
I've got a similar guide, although I don't know the brand name. Even with the hold down screws, there's some give in the middle when clamped at both ends.
Since it's often impossible to clamp in the middle, I drilled a small hole sized for a finishing nail. I don't have to drive the nail in very far to stabilize the middle, and the resulting hole is next to invisible for the kinds of projects I'd be using the guide for.
Years ago I had a metal shop make some out of 10 gauge stainless. They are about 4 inches wide with a half inch bent up on one edge in a L shape. I run the tools along the bent up edge. It also works great for picking them up. I bought a 2, 4, 6 and 8 footer. They have had a lot of use and work great. If I did it again I would skip the 6 footer.
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