Sewing Desk Progress

The side cabinets with drawers are built. they need a touch of sanding and mint green paint.
The bottom supports that, will support the 8' long sewing table top, are done and need to be attached, with bolts and inserts, to the drawer units.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542133823/
This gap is 5-11/32" wide. How do you sink the 6 pocket hole screws?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542033805/
Like this.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13542036185/
I would replace this drill kit in a heart beat should it ever need to be replaced. Expensive but strong enough to keep my impact driver on the shelf for the past 2 years and extremely versatile.
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you sink the 6 pocket hole screws?

Where on the cabinets is the picture driving the screws? You know, what part? It isn't apparent to me.
--
Jim in NC


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On 3/31/2014 2:17 PM, Morgans wrote:

Does this help? It is the bridge between the cabinets. The screws were driven to attach the 4 inner short supports.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/13546182835/in/photostream/
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On 3/31/2014 4:51 PM, Leon wrote:

much better understanding now.. looking good.
mdf under the bridge?
--
Jeff

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On 3/31/2014 5:44 PM, woodchucker wrote:

No MDF. All poplar and paint grade maple plywood. Ah, the walnut cross braces. Those came out of a warped scrap.
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On 3/31/2014 1:43 PM, Leon wrote:

If I cut your skull open, will it say Festool under the top? Or made in Germany?
--
Jeff

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On 3/31/2014 3:04 PM, woodchucker wrote:

I haven't looked in there lately. ;~)
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On 3/31/2014 1:43 PM, Leon wrote:

For those of us who are Fes-poor:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/8061755376/in/set-72157628183501013
For your application I'd have needed a new square drive bit of the right length. And my way is a two-hand operation. But the price is a better fit for my frequency of use.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200212574_200212574?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Power%20Tools-_-Power%20Tool%20Accessories-_-M0398&ci_src588969&ci_sku=M0398&gclid=CLLgjrTXvb0CFZRr7Aod9GIANA
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On 3/31/2014 4:11 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

There is a line when too short, is too short. ;~)
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On 3/31/2014 5:11 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

Yepppppp. That's how I do it.. But I'm waiting to win the Festool Lottery.. :-)
--
Jeff

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Thanks. Yep, that makes it clear.!
--
Jim in NC

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On 4/1/2014 7:10 AM, Morgans wrote:

I think next time I will try to design in at least 6" of clearance. ;~)
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wrote

\ Either that, or put the screws in the edges of the board from the top and the bottom. Two screws would be as strong as three because they are toenails in opposition. As you did it, I would put the middle screw in the other side to get the toenail effect, also. Not that it is probably particularly needed for strength, though.
--
Jim in NC


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Fighting more medical problems with Mom so I am getting here less, not more as we talked about at Christmas with Karl. But it is a real treat to see your new projects when I get here and have a chance to read/see them.
As always, great work. I know custom cabinet makers that don't turn out new projects with the frequency you do, and certainly their work (generally sp eaking) isn't as nice. One thing for sure, they don't turn out anything cl ose to the variety of building styles and projects that you tackle.
Keep up the good work and thanks for posting.
Robert
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On 4/1/2014 10:12 AM, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Sorry to hear about your mom, Robert. I am going through this with my dad but he is finally over the hump, at least for the past 2 weeks, he has lost about 13 of the 40 lbs that he gained since Christmas.
Thank you once again for the kind words and compliments.
Hope you got my explanation of the prevention of bowing walnut. I think the key was Kiln Dried. LOL.
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The sole purpose of those walnut pieces is to insure uniform width of the rails, that they are attached to, and to prevent those rails from twisting. So strength is not a big factor here. I did use two equal length temp. Spacers on the back sides to dictate location, shown in the previous pictures.
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