Husky tool chest bought with locked/broken drawers?

Feb 11, 2006 9 Replies

I contacted Husky and they sent me keys for the cabinets but still drawers will not unlock, so beleive locks to be broken to some degree(some draws lock and open and others are just permanently locked), Is there a way to disengage or gut the lock system alltogether without the need for expensive locksmith tools??? what are my options?



Is the key turning at all?

If the box has one lock cylinder on top and the top will unlock, check for push rods down each side or the front/rear (actuated by the top) that must pop up to release the lower drawers.

Is it the kind of box that the top lifts up? On mine that's what unlocks the drawers. There is a flat bar attached to the rear of the top that lifts up with the top and unlocks the drawers.

Al

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in news:L%mHf.97493$ snipped-for-privacy@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com:

Lock cylinders or the pins might be gummed up,frozen or rusted;spray with some penetrating oil. (not WD-40,Water-Displacement fliud)

If that loosens them up,then flush with a solvent to clear out the oil,then lube with dry graphite.Otherwise the oil will gum up the cylinders/pins eventually.

Expensive locksmith tools can be bought for about $10. $20 for the deluxe "expensive" set.

Steve

Takes a little knowledge to use them though.....

I would just take a claw hammer and drive the claw end into the lock where it meets the cabinet...you should be able to bust out the lock without completely destroying the cabinet front...straighten out the metal with a hammer, pliers whatever....then coat with some rustoleum paint........good as new

I would try drilling out the lock. Start using a 1/4" drill bit and working up in diameter until the lock pops loose. Just a thought

Ed

Is this tool chest new? If so, why are you wasting your time (and ours)? Take it back. If it's old/used, then listen to those who have provided ideas. cc

That is what I would do also.. BUT I would start with an 1/8 inch bit CENTERED... then increase the bit size up to 1/4 inch...which should be all that is needed IF CENTERED...that would drill out the screw that holds the locking cam on the rear of the cyclinder . Take care to center the initial hole... .

I own 4 of these or similar units...NONE of the locks on any of the drawers still have the cams still attached.. Bob G..

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required