Model 124.214000, identical to the Rikon 10" saw also carried by Sears, but $170 instead of $220. Turns out to be a decent machine for the price. Tr acked perfectly right out of the box. Blade guides needed to be set in clo ser, but otherwise, better than I expected. Anyone put one of these to a t orture test, i.e. resawing 4" black locust?
I've no klew on the current model specifically; I've an old 10" Craftsman from the '70s era, roughly, that's a decent-enough saw for what it is.
The problem w/ it for resawing is it simply doesn't have sufficient HP for it w/ the supplied 1/2 hp motor for full throat capacity for harder woods even w/ a resaw blade. I put a 3/4 on this one and it's ok for what it is. I'd expect basically the same thing on the one you have presuming it is reasonably stout.
Is it fixed frame or does it have the ability for a riser block to be inserted? This one is of the Al cast "simulated torsion box" design so doesn't allow same...
Fixed frame, welded steel. 4-1/2" resaw capacity. Did okay with some 4" walnut with the included 6 tooth blade, slow, but acceptable. In the rare event that I need more capacity, I have a 100 year old George Hammond crosscut saw that I retoothed 6 pt rip, narrow set.
Really a 3/4 blade on a 10".. I don't put a 3/4 on my 14"
I suppose your blade is 6 teeth per inch. You are seriously going to want some where in the area of less than 2 teeth per inch. I use a 1 tooth per inch bi-metal and a point 8 teeth per inch in HSS for rue sawing. And you are going to find that walnut is way softer than black locust.
You and me both.
I think it was Duginski who pointed out that the average 14" bandsaw isn't strong enough to put sufficient tension on a 3/4" or wider blade. He suggests a 1/2" blade for resawing.
I'll replace the 6 tooth blade with 3 tooth skip when it snaps. That should be fine for general purpose cutting with occasional resawing of guitar sides. If I turn out a finished instrument every 2 months, I'll be doing well.
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