scrub planes - can you convert a jack plane?

I would like to have a scrub plane for rough work, but you would think they are made of gold. Question: can I take a Stanly jack plane and round the blade and get the same performance?
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McQualude

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Been there, tried that, bought a scrub.
I started with a new POS Stanley #4, and tried setting the cap iron way back, moving the frog back, and radiusing the iron. It worked ... somewhat.
Then I bought an old wooden jack and radiused the iron on it. It worked ... somewhat better.
Then I found a #40 for about $40 from an oldtools dealer. I never looked back.
The deal is a real scrub is very narrow and light and has no cap-iron or adjuster to worry about. It is the right tool for the job. The wooden jack makes a passable scrub because it's light, but it's still too wide. The metal plane was too wide and too difficult to get "unadjusted" to work that way.
You can play around with different radii and depth of cut to make your converted smoother or jack easier to push, but it's nothing like getting a proper scrub set up and taking "shavings" that (to paraphrase Bob Z.) you *rake* off your shop floor. And those who use them say that a *wooden* scrub is even better (but I like the knob and tote from a metal Stanley).
If you plan to surface wood on a semi-regular basis, it's worth your while to go ahead and "cry once".
Chuck Vance
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snip McQualude wrote:

I picked up am old Satanley #40 for $12 last year in PA. Before that I was using a Fulton #5 with a highly radiused blade. Took a bit more work because the blade was about an 1" wider than a real scrub and not as thick, but it gave a better surface, so it took out some cleanup work at the same time. Came out as a wash I guess. The answer is yes and no. Dave in Fairfax
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On Fri, 15 Aug 2003 12:54:59 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@fairfax.com went down to the crossroads and wrote:

I'll bet it's a damned fine plane... nice as Hell. I had a Devil of a time finding one.

Jamie
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snip Jamie Jackson wrote:

I'll see if my digicam is working and post a pic. Dave in Fairfax
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Jamie, pix on ABPW Dave in Fairfax
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snip Mike wrote:

I guess I'd better break out another case of smiley faces. chris, I meant to spell it that way. Sorry Dav in Fiarfax
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A 5 1/4 is a bit narrower and shorter than a 5 and so might be a better choice.
The jack won't cut as deep as a real scrub but it will take off a wider shaving so maybe you'd get to the same thickness jsut as fast.
Also, there's no reason you can't put a narrower cutter in a plane, but I'd hesitate to use a #2 sized iron that way just because they're a bit scarce.
--

FF

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Fred the Red Shirt wrote:

Grind to a deep crown, about 1/8 to 1/4". Set the blade depth to 1/16", and it'll take narrow shavings. Advantage here is when the working edge segment dulls, nudging the tilt lever exposes sharp iron.
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drill
Eek!!! Don't even say that. The image of drilling holes in my LN 5 1/2 will give me nightmares for a week. ;-)
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Right. Drill them in your LN 5 1/4.
--

FF

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pixelated:

Hey, send 'em to me. My knee's better and I'll put my hot list (y'know, the bow saur and the carving bench) aside and do 'em first thing next week if not sooner.
Forward $150 for each and I'll cover return shipment.
How scrubby do you want the irons, a smile or a BSEG?
--------------------------------------------------- I drive way too fast to worry about my cholesterol. --------------------------------------------------- http://www.diversify.com Refreshing Graphic Design
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Wow. Well, maybe I don't need ALL $150 worth. Say $25 worth. What'll that get me? And I got a bad knee too. Hey, maybe we could get together and feel sorry for each other!
wrote:

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pixelated:

For that, you pay shipping and I'll grind the grin on them and let you hone them. You need the practice, anyway. Deal? ;)

There ya go!
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There you go (G)
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Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
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I was looking for a Stanley #40 but none came my way so I bought an ECE scrub from Lee Valley (I think that's where I got it). It works well even in the hands of a newbie like me.
Cheers, Mike
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I did this with a no name jack (copy of copy of a stanely, I think). Radius the blade. I think it was a 3 inch radius--used a 6 inch circle cut out of plywood to steady the blade with against the grinder to make the edge. This is a fairly deep radius edge, results in a narrow "shaving" but can really hog off material well.
Prior to the change, the jack plane was a POS, wouldn't work for anything, even with a Hock blade. Now it earns its keep.
tim
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You looked at woodies? http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/indextool.mvc?prodid=MS-ECE106-S http://www.fine-tools.com/schrup.htm
Before an indulgent wife allowed the L-N, I had a Polish scrub made out of beech that hogged wood readily.
As Andy said, there's more blade on a jack than you want with a scrub, but if you are content to take a few more strokes, you can convert the blade to what a jack used to be, about a 1/8 " crowned iron. Move the frog back for clearance, and have at it.

they
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Doubt it. Scrubs tend to have narrower blades. Plus the throat opening must be much larger to allow the large chips and chunks thorugh. The chipbreaker is another factor to consider. By the time you are done, you wil leither hve a scrub that does nto work, or a ruined jack plane.
Get your self a simple Knight scrub, or an ECE one. I prefer wood planes, especially in scrubs because you are moving it a lot, and the lightness of a woodie helps. It has less mass, but you are not taking long steady strokes where chatter kills you.
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