Router Cabinet vs Another option

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krw wrote:

Isn't a rabbet, by definition, at the edge of the stock?
If not, it *is* a dado, no?
If the rabbet is 2" from the edge, it is a dado.... unless you're saying it's a 2" long rabbet..... ...which would probably make it a tenon. :-)
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wrote:

IIRC, technically a rabbet is with the grain too, but I could be mistaken.

Read the paragraph again.

No, I said; "I'm *NOT* talking about a rabbet, rather a dado, say 2" from the edge."
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krw wrote:

Gotcha. brainfart
In any case, and even though it wasn't the original topic, like another guy wrote, a rectangular base allows a router to "hang off" the edge quite a bit farther than a round one.
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krw wrote:

What's the flaw?
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wrote:

A misunderstanding of your technique? See my 1:00 post.
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http://www.shopnotes.com/plans/adjustable-dado-jig /
Max
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krw wrote:

Ok, I think I get it now. I'm not talking about using two, while you're making the cut. Just one.
I'm saying you can use two, to help space out multiple, equally spaced dadoes. If you're putting fixed shelves 12" apart, you make a spacer/spacers cut 12". Place first clamp and make first dado cut. Leave first clamp on. Insert spacer/spacers and apply second clamp against spacer. Cut second dado. Leap frog clamps to continue.
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wrote:

Ah, OK, there's the misunderstanding. I thought you were using the second straightedge and block to define the width of the dado. A good idea, except for the edge effect. I like my routers (PC690 w/"D" handle and Bosch Palm) but they're not good at hogging out a 3/4" dados in one pass.
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krw wrote:

Cool, we're both seeing oranges, now. :-)
However, I've seen the technique using two clamps to determine the width of a dado, too.
And yeah, you usually want to make a few passes, it they're deep. Using a bit that ejects sawdust rather than just push it, helps too.
Now, we're back to whatever post talked about a tablesaw stacked dado being much better. :-)
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wrote:

Yep. ;-) Sorry for any confusion.

I've built jigs to do this but never thought of using two clamps. Doh!

I just bought an up-spiral bit for use in my table. I'll likely buy a few more over the next few months. Unfortunately we're getting close to the winter no-woodworking season. :-(

Now that I have a table saw, sure. I still tend to use a router for large panels. I'm not very good at controlling sheets of stuff on the table saw. Moving the tool is easier.
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krw wrote:

Yeah, it all depends on your tools and what you're comfortable with. On my last TS, I would never have even considered cutting dadoes, let alone on a full sheet. On my new-to-me TS with the out-feed table I recently completed, I can't wait to try it. :-)
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wrote:

I have a Unisaw with 50" fence with a roller stand for outfeed. I just don't feel comfortable humping something that awkward around alone though.
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Which is why another post was talking about a radial arm saw with a dado stack; somewhat scary, of course, but much easier. Small RAS don't have the right guards for a dado, that's a MAJOR reason to buy a big 'un.
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On Mon, 30 Nov 2009 11:49:17 -0800 (PST), the infamous whit3rd

Wow, there are different _sizes_ of radio alarm saws? Whoda thunk it?
-- Some days, it's not even worth chewing through the restraints.
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On Mon, 30 Nov 2009 20:28:15 -0800, Larry Jaques

Surely you don't think everyone saws the same sized logs? It takes a bigger radio alarm for big logs.

What trunk?
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Steve Turner wrote:

I'd like to do the math on how much blade there is to cut with the dado vs router bit.
Two blades at 24k rpm at whatever speed you're feeing the stock. vs. 24(?) teeth at 5k rpm at whatever speed you're feeing the stock.
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wrote:

What size is the dust and how efficient is the removal?
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The dado stack is more efficient. No contest.
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Tipspeed at 3500 rpm of an 8" stack...vs a dinky 3/4"(?) routerbit at 22K
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Lots of good advice and tips. Thanks guys.
Several years ago, we ripped out all the Corian from my brother's house. I saved it.... at least 50 sq ft of it. Multiple plates, rather than inserts, sounds like an easy option.
Two 16" Uni-T fences with UHMW fence face will be ordered soon. Wish they'd offer 24" lengths.
A "remote" switch was concerned, also. I didn't know what a momentary foot switch is, but I see Woodcraft has one for $20.... looks perfect! I like the push-button type action, rather than a toggle type mechanism.
On another note, my nephew and I recently installed new decking (double layered) and re-shingled half the shop roof.... about 900 sq ft (inclusive of a 30' X 12' backside overhang). Little by little, it's getting completed. *Decking material - free, salvaged from construction work sites, along with lots of framing stock. Shingles (architectural) - $7 a bundle from Lowes' "damaged" department.
Sonny
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