Rough Bandsaw cut

[LtNtHacker]

I have a 14" JET CS that I believe is setup right (first bandsaw). However, I think the cut is too rough (as if the blade is shimming side to side as I cut) Tension seems good, wheels are aligned, guides are set to within the thickness of a dollar bill.

Originally the blade was riding so that the back edge was centered on the convex wheel. Lately I centered the Blade so that the teeth are just foward of the crown (so they don't run against the tire.) Is this right?

TIA Steve

[Bay Area Dave]

yes.

the things that are important, you left out of your post. Like how many TPI and type of blade. How fast are you sawing? Are you using a fence? What is "too rough"?

dave

LtNtHacker wrote: snip

Lately I centered the Blade so that the teeth are just foward of

[nospam]

center the blade on the wheel.

is the blade sharp?

[Bjarte Runderheim]

"LtNtHacker" skrev i melding news: [e-mail]...

On a convex tire (what the rubberband on the wheel is called) the blade should always be centered on top of the tire, which is to say, the centerline of the blads along the centerline of the wheel.

On the other hand, there are bandsaws with entirely _flat_ tires. _Then_ the blade should be aligned so that the teeth run just off the wheel.

Bjarte

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Time to go back and do a tune-up. In spite of your beliefs, it is not set up and cutting properly. It may take a time or two to get things exact and make you comfortable doing it. .

The center of the blade should ride on the center of the wheel. While the wheels should be co-planer, it is more important that the blade ride the top wheel properly.

Ditch the blocks that came with the saw in favor of Cool Blocks. The blocks should be set so they are just behind the teeth. If not, the teeth set will chew them up. Forget about the dollar bill thing, just set them to touch lightly. The bearing should be almost, but not quite touching. Make sure both top and bottom guides are properly set. It is too easy to forget to look under the table.

Check the table to be sure it is 90 degrees to the blade. You may have leaned on it and knocked out of the perfect setting when you assembled the saw.

Get a good blade. The one that came with the saw is not as good as Timberwolf and other high quality blades. You should have a 1/2" re-saw, a

1/4" general purpose, and a 1/8" for tight radius cutting. Give Suffolk Machine a call and order direct for the best prices.

Next is blade tension. The indicator on the back is only a guide. If the blade is vibrating side to side, tighten until it is tracking straight.

Get a Quik-Crank for the tensioner.

It is $31 including shipping. That way when you are done for the day you can easily take off the tension and put it back the same number of turns when needed. Saw should be made with them from the start.

Get a good book on bandsaws. Duginski (sp?) is one of the better ones. Ed

[Mo' Sawdust]

Has the current blade developed a kink in it?

[Joe "Woody" Woodpecker]

The biggest problem these other so called woodworkers did not address was your BS needs a blade stablizer. You can get this From TWC for about $65. Once installed correct, you won't have to worry about blade tension or the blade wandering.

-- Woody

Check out my Web Page at:

you will find:

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[Bay Area Dave]

still making friends and influencing people, eh, JWW??

dave

Joe Woody Woodpecker wrote:

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