Resawing on the band saw

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On 05/05/2015 12:56 PM, HerHusband wrote:

I adjusted the tension so much to account for the 1/2" difference in blade length because of the riser, I'm not sure the indicator has much meaning. I followed the Highland article suggestions on tensioning.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/bandsaw-resawing-tips.html

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On 5/5/15 1:56 PM, HerHusband wrote:

Be sure to verify that both ends of the riser block are parallel to each other and square to the blocks axis.
-BR

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HerHusband wrote:

I agree with John about using a sled for the logs. You may be getting bow because the "verticality" of what you are cutting varies.
I prefer a pivot for the little bit of resawing I do...the pivot is one point, my left thumb is another. I have also used a short fence, worked pretty well. By "short fence" I mean a fence only on the infeed side.
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On 5/5/2015 9:40 AM, HerHusband wrote:

Probably way way to narrow of a blade. The more the blade twists the more it will go off track of a straight line. Logs tend to be inconstant with moisture content, dryer in some spots and wetter in others. This can cause the blade to want to wander. A wider blade is less likely. If I resaw 6" or more I go with at least a 1" blade.

If you are taxing the saw/blade nothing is going to give you a good cut.
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On Tue, 05 May 2015 16:04:07 -0500, Leon wrote:

But a 14" saw won't take a 1" blade (1/8" to 3/4" according to Grizzly). And from what I've read, even a 3/4" blade can bend the frame of a 14" bandsaw. A riser makes the problem worse.
I used to cut a lot of green wood for turning. I wound up spraying Dri- Cote on the blade to minimize the sap buildup. That helped some.
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On 5/5/2015 6:51 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:

Right. He may be trying to cut way too much log for the blade and saw.

Right. Well trying to tension a 3/4" blade might bend the frame. And of the blade gets hot it is going to stretch and throw the tension off again....

Humm I bet that did/does... I now have ceramic guides and those tend to keep the blade clean.
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Last fall I ripped a well dried 6"x8" beam into boards with a 1/2" Timberwolf blade. I eventually got several usable boards from it, but had lots of problems with the blade bowing in the wood. I was cutting very slowly too, so I doubt the feed rate was an issue.

I have only used 1/2" blades, except for the 3/8" green wood blade I have on the saw now.
Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com
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On 5/6/2015 12:23 AM, HerHusband wrote:

The key word there is a well dried beam. Your log might be wet in spots.

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Leon,

The bowing problem occurs with wood that has been drying for 50+ years as well as fresh green logs. So I don't think it is an issue with the material I am cutting.
Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com
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On 5/6/2015 3:37 PM, HerHusband wrote:

Have you tried a brand new blade?
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Did you ever resolve the tracking problem that had plagued your saw for 7 years?
http://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/grizzly-g0555-bandsaw-tracking-problems-778938-.htm
If not, your success resawing green logs will be marginal at best.
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Hmm... That's funny. I didn't remember complaining about the same problem last year. But to answer your question, nope, still having issues getting it setup correctly.
Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com
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On Wed, 6 May 2015 20:35:52 +0000 (UTC)

you will have to get it setup now because of you try to sell it the buyer will go looking for answers on how to adjust it and find all your posts
i agree with going back to stock setup and proceed from there making only small changes then test and repeat if needed
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Just a follow-up to my earlier post...
I dismantled the G0555 band saw and drilled out the holes for the alignment pins. I think the original holes were 1/4", I oversized them to 3/8". This gave me a tiny bit of play to adjust the upper half of the frame.
I put the saw back together and tightened the blade. Both wheels are coplaner and the blade tracks in the center of both wheels.
I still needed the shims behind the lower wheel, so shifting the upper half slightly didn't make a lot of difference.
Anyway, I adjusted the fence for the blade drift and resawed a couple of small 2x8 boards with no difficulties. Nice and flat, no bowing in the middle. So for now, with the current blade, the saw seems to be working as it should.
Thanks,
Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com
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On 5/14/2015 8:01 PM, HerHusband wrote:

Thanks for the followup. I did the same to my delta years ago, when I told a group on lumberjocks that I received a ton of flack telling me that doesn't work, and is necessary. Amazing that people will tell you that it can't solve your problem even though it did.
--
Jeff

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"woodchucker" wrote in message

I've run into that kind of thing numerous times... it's annoying!
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On Fri, 15 May 2015 00:01:37 +0000 (UTC)

now you can sell it with integrity and principles intact
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While I would like to upgrade to a better saw, it's not in my budget right now. Besides, even I were to sell it I would let the buyer know any issues I have had with it.
Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com
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