Re: SOLID CORE DOOR

JOAT writes:

Nicely done, but it's a 4 panel door, not a solid core. It's sold, but has no core.
Still, I might make a few near that pattern next year to replace the birch crap in our VA house.
The problem there is the pocket door. I hate working on those things.
Charlie Self "All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is sure." Mark Twain http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
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On Mon, 2 Feb 2004 04:27:29 -0500 (EST), snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (T.) wrote:

Not bad information, but I've never considered lumber full of knots to be "straight-grained". Seems to me that the greatest stability would be found using clear pine rather than knotty or some sort of hardwood.
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
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On Mon, 2 Feb 2004 04:27:29 -0500 (EST), snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (T.) wrote:

Something else to bear in mind when building a panel door (of any size/type) is to do your glue-up on a *flat* surface. Otherwise you will just build in warp. DAMHIKT
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
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On Mon, 02 Feb 2004 09:17:51 -0800, Tim Douglass

when you do your dry run stand the door up in clamps and sight across the stiles, winding stick- wise. if the whole thing has twist give it a tweak to see if it will come to plane. if not, you may need to shave a bit on the jointery. in any case, don't apply glue until you know that the door will come flat while standing free. forcing the twist out of it with clamps or weights while the glue dries won't work.     Bridger
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Maybe not, but you can sure force twist into it if your bench isn't flat.
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
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