the big difference between the ridgid and the c'man rails is the
ridgid rails are one piece and the c'man rails are two piece.
as was suggested, move the rails over to the right of the saw, and
bolt em back down.
you are going to want to make a filler panel to keep the rails from
bowing when you clamp the fence tight.
when you are ready for a REAL fence, Try the Excalibur.
i checked at sears, and it seems they went to a one piece front and
one piece rear rail some time after i bought mine. . .
either way, for just about any fence system a filler panel is a good
If you're looking for length and are happy with the saw and don't need a
large left rip capacity then you can unbolt the arms on the saw and slide
them to the right a foot, giving you a 36" rip capacity. You may then have
to replace the gauge with one that's 36", but that should be realatively
easy to find (maybe from Ridgid.com?). I have the newer model (TS3612) that
has, as you may guess, a 12" left and 36" right rip. I like the fence - it's
very accurate when properly tuned (though with's definitley not a Bies or
Anyway, it MAY be possible for the OP to check on-line for a repair shop
nearby, and get that repair shop to order the fence rails for the 3612.
Might not, too, but worth a try, as it should be cheaper.
If not, www.mulecab.com is a good place to start looking for relatively low
"Men willingly believe what they wish."
Julius Caesar, De Bello Gallico
Doh! Good catch Charlie :-) I meant to say 36" tape measure - if he slides
the rails to the right then all of his measurements will be off by n inches
(where n = the offset). A new tape glued in place of the old one would let
him use his original rails and cost very little to do...
How much rip capacity are you looking for? I believe that your saw is
quite similar to my slightly older Sears version. The fence rails are
mounted to the main table and extensions with nuts in slots in the rail.
It is possible to slide the rails so that almost all the rip capacity
is to the right of the blade.
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