Sorta true... The kick back is less likely between the blade and the fence
but is offset by the waste being fed into the back side of the up spinning
blade. Kickback does not require a fence in the equation to happen.
Perhaps this got started by instruction manual writers who wanted to be sure
owners would err on the safe side when aligning the fence. If a sloppy tuner
shoots for dead parallel, there's a 50% chance he's going to create a pinch.
The more experienced person would probably decide for himself how to tune
his saw anyway.
I'm relatively inexperienced. My fence has the prescribed toe-out, and it
will stay that way until I see that it's causing a problem.
It isn't the writer's fault. Check out your manuals. Notice all the skull and
crossbone boxes telling you to keep your fingers out of places no sane person
would put them anyway. Same with the slight toe-out (when I have to recommend
it, I recommend folding a sheet of copy paper and using that as the measuring
stick). It is based on legal liabilities in our suit prone society. First we
need fewer lawyers. Then we need judges with the guts to toss out the bullshit
cases without hearing them. And we need juries, for the stuff that goes to jury
trial, that have sense enough to know that idiots should not be rewarded for
When all this happens, check out Cloud Nine. It's in Seventh Heaven, where
we'll all be.
"To create man was a quaint and original idea, but to add the sheep was
tautology." Mark Twain's Notebook
What is the personal risk, damage to cut or waste stock, or any other conceivable
danger of kicking out the fence a few thou from the heel of the TS blade? I have
always done that on my General 350 and no blood yet.
Charlie Self wrote:
I am using 2 different WWII 40 tooth general on a Jet cabinet saw with the
fence parallel to the blade. When I have them sharpened I send them to
Forrest and have them bring the blade back to factory specs along with
resharpening, When ripping perfectly straight stock I get no tooth marks
and the results are usually shiney smooth.
If you are getting tooth marks on a perfectly parallel fence one of the
following may be the problem.
Your stock may not be perfectly straight. If it is not the wood will not
feed perfectly straight.
You could have a tooth or 2 that is not in perfect alignment with the
others. This is why I have Forrest bring the blade back to factory specs
with every resharpening.
Your saws could have a little too much run out on the arbor.
I would put more thought into whether your blade is at factory specs or if
your stock is perfectly straight.
I agree that this can cause the problem, but it's not the case here.
The locals playing with me agree the wood is straight.
It's a 30 day old WWII. Maybe I'll call Forrest and ask about them
looking at it. But the other combos did exhibit similar behavior.
Wouldn't this show up on some of the other blades? We did this on (4)
saws, a brand new General 650, a PM66, and two different Jet
contractor's saws. The cuts made with the rip blades looked like they
were scraped smooth, not a mark to be found.
"Mouse Nuts" is another reference point I oft hear bantered about.
Insect/mammal discussion aside, I'd proffer that the gnat's buttocks be used
for measurements in the < 0.010" range. And we leave the genetalia of the
Order Rodentia to cover 0.011" to 0.100".
I'm open to more similies for measurements greater than a tenth of an inch.
What do gnats eat?
No matter, what that gives you is a fence that is NOT parallel to the
A better solution would be to put 1/32nd inch UHMW plastic laminate on
or something like formica on the front half of the fence and leave the
back edge of the fence bare to give the wood a little room as needed
Personally I keep my fence as parallel to the blade as I can
On Thu, 29 Jan 2004 01:20:57 GMT, B a r r y B u r k e J r .
When I bought my Unisaw new in 1979, I just wished it had a vertical
face on the rip fence! The dirty dog was splayed out top-to-bottom
at the operator end. I built my own "T"-Square fence from 2" x 3"
rectangular steel tubing and faced it with 3/4" x 5" white ash. I
haven't aligned the blade to perfection (it's off probably 0.010 to
maybe 0.020 across the diameter -- rough guess without measuring),
but it is SWEET! I used polyethylene blocks as sliders for the T-square
and it's as smooth as silk. Other than the junk fence that came with
it, I LOVE my Unisaw.
"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." wrote:
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