Performax drum sander

I am considering the purchase of a Performax 16-32 drum sander. It requires a 20 amp circuit. I have a DC that requires a 20 amp circuit. The DC runs fine on a 15 amp circuit and the sander probably would too but certainly not both at the same time.
Can these be rewired to run on 220? There are 2 motors on this sander. The 1.5 hp AC 110 volt motor and the smaller DC belt drive motor.
Thanks
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I went to the trouble of taking mine apart. Nope, 16/32 is strictly 120v. I thought maybe you could convert the drum motor to 240 and leave the belt on 120, but there are only two wires going into the motor.
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Thanks for checking.
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The motor has a switched outlet into which it plugs on the current (HA!) version, but the Taiwan motor is not optioned for 220. Different motor supplier might option. That would make dual-voltage operation possible. Sounds like a slip into a definite maybe. My other JET tools all have option motors, so the JET version might.
Certainly would be easy to convert if the motor were capable.
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I shoot them an e-mail and see what they have to say.
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You are going to want to run your DC at the same time as the sander. The Performax seems to be 99% dust free with DC working. Robert Leon wrote:

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Right, that is the problem. Both would have to be running at the same time on a 15 amp circuit. If I have a drum sander running on my 220 volt circuit there would be no problem.
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On Sat, 11 Nov 2006 03:48:21 GMT, "Leon"

I have a 22-44 and the paperwork says that you can't do it.
After reading the other posts I see your version is the same.
Have you tried to change your DC to run on 220?
DC is a must have! The only dust is what lays on the belt and falls off to the floor.
Gary
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wrote:

I could rewire the DC to 220 however then I would have to run an extra 220 line over to it as I only have one 220 outlet. My TS, Planer, and BS run on 220 and having the DC run on 110 is a good set up for me now. Right now I do not run more than 220 volt tool at one time.
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Leon wrote:

If the 220 circuit is 20 amps, you might be able to split a 20 amp 110 circuit off it. Disclaimer.. I'm not an electrician.. but I've done this before.. Check your breaker box.. If the ground wire to the 220 is connected to the same bus as the white wires of the normal 110V circuits are connected to, then you can split off a 120, 20 amp circuit using one of the poles of the 220.
You might feel safer by pulling out the 220 breaker and replacing it with a 110 breaker.. that's actually what I would do if this was a long term solution. The existing wire can already handle 20 amps (if the existing 220 circuit is 20 amps).
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I was thinking that. IIRC the 220 circuit is a 50 amp circuit that also feeds the clothes dryer. Running the dryer and TS at the same time is no problem at all. I'll have to talk to an electrician abou that idea.

IIRC the 220 has no ground. It is a 3 wire set up.

No, I still have to have that 220 service.
It may be easier to use a heavy extension cord from another circuit.
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It has a ground; it doesn't have a neutral. Without a neutral you can't get 120v from it. If you do, someone touching the dryer might be in for a little surprise.
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Leon wrote:

Actually, it does have a ground.. I didn't explain it clearly.
A 220 line has three wires. The black and red are "hot".. Think of one as +110 and the other as -110.. Thus the voltage drop is 220V. You probably have a white wire, that's what I was calling "ground". Usually they connect the white wire to the same bus on the breaker panel as the other grounds (bare copper). Think of the white wire as 0.. Thus, the difference from the black or red wire to the white wire is 110.
That's how you're able to split off a 110 from a 220.. You could make a little adapter that has a 220 plug, and connect 2 wires (the white wire and then either the red/black) to a regular 120 Box.. and you're set.
Of course, check on the breaker box just to make sure that your outlet is wired to convention.. I got zapped at my sisters house due to some idiot doing DIY wiring.
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Yeah, I understand that but was not sure that it was really a ground or something that worked like a ground.

Yeah, I tapped into the back of the dryer outlet to run an outlet to run my 220 TS. I was under the impression that I coule go with two of the wires from there and get 110.

If I do that, would I then be with out a ground? Actually if it is wired like you say the white still goes back to the other grounds and I would.
I suppose a volt meter will tell me what is what on the outlet end.
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Thanks to every one for your input and suggestions. Thanks to bf's last post I tool a look at my breakers and noticed a seperate 20 amp breaker for the washing machine. The washing machine is in the garage/shop. I never use the outlet that the wahshing machine is pluggen into and had totally for gotten about that circuit. I turned off the breaker to all the outlets that I normally use and the washing machine still had power.
Damn that was easy.
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Leon wrote:

Glad you got a solution.. We couldn't let something as trivial as electricity stop you from getting a new toy. You'll love it, I'm sure.
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