Yes it will work. As long as the power supply has at least the capacity the device requires (proper voltage, sufficient amperage), it will work. Of course, that assumes the connector is the right size and polarity.
Yes it will work. As long as the power supply has at least the capacity the device requires (proper voltage, sufficient amperage), it will work. Of course, that assumes the connector is the right size and polarity.
Not woodworking but this group has never failed to have the answer when I get stuck. We recently moved and had at least 20 gadgets that use power supplies. Now I can match the power supplies to several of the computer gadgets. So here is my question. I have a wacom artpad that says it requires 12v 0.10A The only power supply I have that is close is a 12v 500mA
Being electronics clueless I don't know if these are compatible or not. I'm going to scratch ids on these power supplies as I get everything plugged in.
It can result in something as benign as nothing happening, or it can be destructive. Look at the device. It should have a decal on it that shows the polarity it expects. Usually the outer part of the connector is - and the inner part is +. This isn't always true, but it is more common than the opposite. Use a volt meter to verify that the plug matches the polarity expected by the markings on the device.
Thanks for the quick reply. I use this for drawing my WW designs. What if it's the wrong polarity. The power supply I have has an end on it where you can switch polarity. What happens if I choose wrong?
You must match the voltages, 12V, which you have done. The amps of the supply must also be equal to or greater than the requirement of the device. This is ok too as 500mA is greater than
100mA(0.10A) One more thing is you have to match is the AC or DC requirements of the device and the supply.Art
The pad says DC and the Adapter says AC so I guess I have to find a different one.:( Only 20 more boxes to search.
I forgot to mention the plug polarity in my response. For DC the center is usually the + connection, but not always. Getting it wrong can range from won't work (but no damage) to letting the magic smoke out and having it never work again.
For AC it doesn't matter.
Art
Thanks I just sent Wacom an email. It has to be quicker than searching all these boxes for the correct power supply. I found a 12v DC 300mA supply with a switchable polarity. using a volt meter would be cool. I have one, somewhere in all these boxes.:)
It may be quicker to go here
Just for the hell of it I checked the Intuos2 and it has the + connection on the shell.
Art
check carefully. it might be AC input and DC output.
Did that this morning, my manual isn't there. I did a google search for one as well no luck at all.
Mine HAS a Plus sign connected to a C with a ball inside the C connected to a minus sign. This I assume means the pin is a minus so I should set my adapter accordingly. Does this sound correct?
Yep, that's right. + on the shell, - on the pin, based on yor description.
Ain't those thing a PITA! I must have 6 under my desk right now.
Regards.
Usually -- Zap --. Wrong polarity or over voltage are the easiest ways to fry electronics. Always make sure the polarity is correct (it's usually marked on the device, but not always on the wall wart. Other replies are correct voltages must be matched (value, polarity, and AC/DC) the wall wart must provide more current than the electrical device requires.
D.G. Adams
On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 15:43:37 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, "Joe B" quickly quoth:
You might fry the tablet, so DON'T do that.
Put an email in to Wacom Tech Support, Joe. List the tablet model and ask the questions to them. They should be able to help.
A Wacom Art-Z 6x9 lives on my desk. The outside connection is the positive (18.89v) , so mine is a reverse-polarity plug.
Hard to say without knowing if they are both AC or DC. Feeling lucky?
Polarity of designs is one of the most important elements of good projects. Your drawings will be incorrect. If you put the wood through the planer with the wrong polarity you'll get a lot of tearout. Once you finally get it assembled backwards, the finish won't stick.
That describes most of my woodwork.
Have to kind of chuckle here - had the same thing happen to me. Someone thought it would be good idea to put all the plugs in 1 box. Ugh - what a nightmare.
Now as a tip - when ever I buy something that has a removeable plug - (99% of them are black) I use a black sharpe and write on the plug what it for. You cant see unless you hold it at the right angle to the light so it works well.
Just a tip for ya in the future.
Not sure I've ever seen a wall wart with AC output. Not saying they don't exist, but for the most part, if it's electronic, it's DC. Imagine trying to design any kind of logic circuit with AC? Yikes! AC is good for motors, lights, and not a lot else.
Actually, a powered device might contain the rectifier/filter/regulator and only use the wart for the AC supply.
It would be nice if all devices were made this way, then the OP's question would be mute.
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