Off Topic... small power supply hell.

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Not woodworking but this group has never failed to have the answer when I get stuck. We recently moved and had at least 20 gadgets that use power supplies. Now I can match the power supplies to several of the computer gadgets. So here is my question. I have a wacom artpad that says it requires 12v 0.10A The only power supply I have that is close is a 12v 500mA
Being electronics clueless I don't know if these are compatible or not. I'm going to scratch ids on these power supplies as I get everything plugged in.
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get
I can

Yes it will work. As long as the power supply has at least the capacity the device requires (proper voltage, sufficient amperage), it will work. Of course, that assumes the connector is the right size and polarity.
--

-Mike-
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wrote:

Thanks for the quick reply. I use this for drawing my WW designs. What if it's the wrong polarity. The power supply I have has an end on it where you can switch polarity. What happens if I choose wrong?
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I
Now
the
It can result in something as benign as nothing happening, or it can be destructive. Look at the device. It should have a decal on it that shows the polarity it expects. Usually the outer part of the connector is - and the inner part is +. This isn't always true, but it is more common than the opposite. Use a volt meter to verify that the plug matches the polarity expected by the markings on the device.
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-Mike-
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I forgot to mention the plug polarity in my response. For DC the center is usually the + connection, but not always. Getting it wrong can range from won't work (but no damage) to letting the magic smoke out and having it never work again.
For AC it doesn't matter.
Art

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Thanks I just sent Wacom an email. It has to be quicker than searching all these boxes for the correct power supply. I found a 12v DC 300mA supply with a switchable polarity. using a volt meter would be cool. I have one, somewhere in all these boxes.:)
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It may be quicker to go here http://www.wacom.com/productsupport/manuals.cfm and get the manual for your device.
Just for the hell of it I checked the Intuos2 and it has the + connection on the shell.
Art
wrote:

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Did that this morning, my manual isn't there. I did a google search for one as well no luck at all.

Mine HAS a Plus sign connected to a C with a ball inside the C connected to a minus sign. This I assume means the pin is a minus so I should set my adapter accordingly. Does this sound correct?

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Yep, that's right. + on the shell, - on the pin, based on yor description.
Ain't those thing a PITA! I must have 6 under my desk right now.
Regards.
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On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 15:43:37 -0700, Joe B wrote:

Usually -- Zap --. Wrong polarity or over voltage are the easiest ways to fry electronics. Always make sure the polarity is correct (it's usually marked on the device, but not always on the wall wart. Other replies are correct voltages must be matched (value, polarity, and AC/DC) the wall wart must provide more current than the electrical device requires.
D.G. Adams
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On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 15:43:37 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, "Joe

You might fry the tablet, so DON'T do that.
Put an email in to Wacom Tech Support, Joe. List the tablet model and ask the questions to them. They should be able to help.
A Wacom Art-Z 6x9 lives on my desk. The outside connection is the positive (18.89v) , so mine is a reverse-polarity plug.
--
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the very foundation of refinement." --William Morris
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Polarity of designs is one of the most important elements of good projects. Your drawings will be incorrect. If you put the wood through the planer with the wrong polarity you'll get a lot of tearout. Once you finally get it assembled backwards, the finish won't stick.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/



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That describes most of my woodwork.
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"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message

projects.
There is a fix, however ... One of those "old carpenter tricks" (although FWW rejected it in their "methods of work" section for some strange reason): Feed the wood from the outfeed side (be persistent), then just face in the opposite direction at assembly.
Your tearout will then be just a minor problem, and your finish will be the least of your problems.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/17/05
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You must match the voltages, 12V, which you have done. The amps of the supply must also be equal to or greater than the requirement of the device. This is ok too as 500mA is greater than 100mA(0.10A) One more thing is you have to match is the AC or DC requirements of the device and the supply.
Art

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The pad says DC and the Adapter says AC so I guess I have to find a different one.:( Only 20 more boxes to search.

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check carefully. it might be AC input and DC output.
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Not sure I've ever seen a wall wart with AC output. Not saying they don't exist, but for the most part, if it's electronic, it's DC. Imagine trying to design any kind of logic circuit with AC? Yikes! AC is good for motors, lights, and not a lot else.
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Actually, a powered device might contain the rectifier/filter/regulator and only use the wart for the AC supply.
It would be nice if all devices were made this way, then the OP's question would be mute.
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wrote:

both mute and moot?
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