New Grizzly G0444Z TS

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How do you intend to tilt the blade with a back on the saw? The reason that it is open is so that the external motor and belts can swing to the side when the blade tilts.
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"Tom" < snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net> wrote in message
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wrote:

Nope. I had cardboard on the back of mine for 4 years. <G> It helped dust collection a great deal.
Barry
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Well, cardboard is what I had in mind, but I didn't want to admit it <G>.
Tom
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wrote:

Why not? It's a tool! I know guys that spend all their time making jigs, shop cabinets, and things like fitted contractor saw backs. While it makes them happy, which is great, I prefer to make items that non-wooddorkers can appreciate!
Barry
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Me too, especially the main non-wooddorker in my life, SWMBO, who incidentally kicked in the extra bucks and insisted that I quit looking for a used saw and get the new Griz. I aspire to cabinetry in the house, a built-in computer desk, shelves and cabinets for her home office, and plantation shutters for the whole house. Now if I can just learn to make a square crosscut, the rest should be easy...
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wrote:

think sleds.....
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Don't you have to know how to make a square crosscut to make a square sled? :)

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wrote:

Only once. <G>
Barry
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sled?
Okay, okay, I was just kidding. I really can make a square crosscut...but that's about it. <G> I will soon be googling for sled plans even though I have an RAS, which BTW, I never would have adjusted properly if I hadn't been hanging around here and learned from you folks (and found the manual). What a difference!! I even ripped some MDF on the RAS and it worked beautifully. Looking forward to my next rip on the Griz though!!
Tom
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What is the difference in ripping and crosscutting on MDF?
wrote:

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On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 11:07:08 -0600, Lawrence A. Ramsey
ripping goes with the grain. crosscutting goes across the grain. everybody knows that.....
GD&R
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Does MDF have a grain?????

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<snip>
Okay, not a rip in the strict sense, but the operation had the geometry often associated with ripping, i.e. along the lengh of a narrow piece.
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<snip>
I've only made a few cuts so far, but I was surprised at how well the dust port worked. I am using a large shop vac hooked up directly BTW. You still get a small amount of sawdust escaping from the back, and some comes off the "top" of the blade where the teeth enter the wood, but it's fairly minor. I even made a long cut on some MDF and did not see much fine dust go into the air (it probably went right through the cartridge on the shop-vac, though).
Still, the direct anser to your question is: Yes, there's a small amount to clean up afterwards.
Tom
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Top posting because I think it makes sense in this case...
I thought I post the outcome of some of the issues I stated in my earlier post, which is included below for anyone who wants to read it.
I checked the flatness with the best straight-edge that I could find and could not sneak a .003" feeler guage underneath it. The .002 went under several places. I checked several different ways and in various directions.
The Cosmoline stains and paint overspray came off fairly easily using plain old paint thinner, as suggested by Grizzly's technical support. They were willing to replace the wings if necessary, but this was a better solution.
Still waiting for the replacement grommet for the power chord. Grizzly claims that it's in the mail.
The worm gear and control shaft for the blade height needed adjustment, and I feel that a washer was omitted during assembly at the factory. It's working great now.
The action of the handwheels is just kind of "loose". I put a lock washer and flat washer between the hand wheel and the stop knob and this made them feel better and prevents the lock knob from back off as you change settings.
Cutting is silky smooth even with a medium quality combination blade. I don't have any super hardwood to test on, but it ripped a pine 2x4 with no problems at all and no sign of bogging down.
The mitre gauge is still a POS. The threads of the handle are too long and protrude through the bar, touching the bottom of the t-slot. I'll correct that with one or two washers. The bottom surface is rough and I won't use it on that pristine table surface until I can smooth it out or put on some type of protective material.
Aside from that, I'm happy as a clam. I resist making a blanket endorsement because I don't feel qualified to evaluate the saw's cutting characteristics as they compare to the more demanding needs many of you have. My GUESS is that this saw is as precise as many of the more expensive tools. I'm in the Dallas area if anyone wants to take a close look. (Just don't laugh at the cabinetry on my work bench <G>. It was my first try...)
Tom

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