Hello everyone.
I was wondering if I could get your input on staining. I've built a fish tank stand out of pine. I wanted to stain it a VERY dark chocolate brown with red highlights. I went to Home Depot and bought Minwax products. I bought mahogany gel stain, oil based stains in two colors (Jacobean and mahogany), and a can of Red Mahogany Polyshade. I have lots of scrap wood to test with so I've been experimenting. With the oil stain there doesn't seem to be a way to get the wood DARK. Like a solid dark chocolate brown dark. The gel stain is worthless (although I love the consistency of it). Too bad. I've gotten great color by applying the polyshade. It's a lot redder than I wanted so I plan on purchasing the Tudor and mixing in some Red mahogany for red highlights if it works out. The problem is that since it's thick I get paint lines and bubbles. I am using a foam brush though for testing and expect that it's the reason for the bubbles. I had a few questions:
My girlfriend's dad who works with wood all the time suggested I paint on the polyshade, wait 5-10 minutes and rub it off with a cloth. He said to keep doing it until I get the darkness I want. He said that by rubbing it off I would get a smooth shade with no lines or bubbles. Has anyone done this before? If so do you have any tips? I guess I'll have to practice on
4-5 pieces of wood to make sure I can get all the pieces the same shade.What grit should I sand with. I planned on sanding with 180 and then 240. Since this polyshade is more like a paint I don't expect that the fineness of scratch lines would play much of a role in accepting more stain.
To clean my wood after sanding and before polyshading I was rubbing down with mineral spirits and then letting it dry. Is this a good idea or should I use denatured alcohol?
Between polyshade coats I've been rubbing slightly with 0000 steel wool. Should I use mineral sprits to clean any debris off? I was just rubbing with paper towels.
Any other polyshade tips would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Sam