buying twice.
I traded this:
For this:
Although it has served me well, both in the shop and onsite,I would probably spring for this today:
I much prefer a portable stand, like the above over the first, shop built, one.
Bill, I have a wood rack. I built it to hold my hardwoods. What I found is that I can clamp 2 x 4's to the supports all in (plane) and leave them there for a few months. This brings them to equilibrium, but due to my setting them with clamps seems to keep them very straight. I realize that they might be held in stress, but so far each one that I have either ripped or crosscut has stayed that way.
So 2x can be used, you just need patience.
Not saying you could use for furniture, but you could use for other purposes. Pick nice straight stuff to begin with, also look for clean wood. Spruce has lots of knots, doug fir can be found clean.
Bill wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news1.newsguy.com:
IMHO, being made of aluminum is an advantage: if you're not going to move the saw around, you don't need a portable stand -- and if you *do* need a portable stand, you
*want* it to be aluminum.I've been using a DeWalt DW723 portable stand for my 10" miter saw for about 8 years now. It's made of aluminum, and it's (a) plenty sturdy, and (b) heavy enough as it is. I'm really, really glad it's *not* steel.
Before there were CSMSs, I bought Delta's Sawbuck, with the solid table -
It easily goes anywhere for all sorts of tasks, so mobility is a great asse t. The circular saw limits work to smaller cuttings (16" wide, 2 3/4" thic k for straight cuts, much wider but less thick for angle cuts), but it sure ly takes care of 90% of my miter and other cutting tasks that "require" thi s type of saw. For larger cuttings, I have Delta's 33-890 RAS.
Whether you buy a stand or make one, make sure it is stable, though it shou ldn't take much to insure its stability, an adequatley wide footprint. You r CSMS is likely a little heavier than my sawbuck, but establishing the req uired stability shouldn't take much doing.
It's easy to buy a stand, rather than making one. Steel or aluminum frame? Aluminum should do very well, as hospital/patient gurneys are made with a luminum frames and can handle lots of weight, which prompts me to suggest, if convenient for you....
*It's not uncommon for me to look for a recycle solution, for my own needs, sometimes, so....Maybe, check out your local hospital and/or ambulance service for a broken gurney (for free?) and use it to make a portable stand. The wheels are tou gh and dependable, also. This sort of thing is easier for me, since I have a close history with the local hospitals, here, but if convenient and maki ng your own stand is practical for you, check them out for an available gur ney.
Facilities can't afford the liability of using a broken gurney, so they jus t throw them away. One hospital, here, does keep the wheels from damaged g urneys, for replacing on other gurneys, when needed, so a salvvaged gurney may not have wheels.
Most gurneys have collapseable mechanisms and this can possibly be modified /adapted to accommodate foldup, for transport of your CSMS work station.
Maybe even Salvation Army or Goodwill will have a gurney available for chea p.
I have several furniture carts, for my upholstery transport work, made from free salvaged gurneys.
Sonny
The circular saw limits work to smaller cuttings (16" wide, 2 3/4" thick for straight cuts, much wider but less thick for angle cuts), but it surely takes care of 90% of my miter and other cutting tasks that "require" this type of saw. For larger cuttings, I have Delta's 33-890 RAS.
shouldn't take much to insure its stability, an adequatley wide footprint. Your CSMS is likely a little heavier than my sawbuck, but establishing the required stability shouldn't take much doing.
Aluminum should do very well, as hospital/patient gurneys are made with aluminum frames and can handle lots of weight, which prompts me to suggest, if convenient for you....
sometimes, so....
gurney (for free?) and use it to make a portable stand. The wheels are tough and dependable, also. This sort of thing is easier for me, since I have a close history with the local hospitals, here, but if convenient and making your own stand is practical for you, check them out for an available gurney.
throw them away. One hospital, here, does keep the wheels from damaged gurneys, for replacing on other gurneys, when needed, so a salvvaged gurney may not have wheels.
modified/adapted to accommodate foldup, for transport of your CSMS work station.
free salvaged gurneys.
Thank you, Sonny. As of this morning I AM leaning towards a stand which will give me "repeatable cuts"--at least in the long term. In the short term, I can surely do fine with another configuration.
This distinction, was a useful concept, at least for me, that came out of this thread.
Bill
$64,,, 71 lbs of twisted steel & sex appeal ;-)
nuff said....
Had one of those 30 years ago when I was building recording studios ... it was great.
Product depth 22" and 37 3/4" high. Does this mean its table top is 22" f ront to back? If so, then the leg span, front to back, is 20" or less. Th at might be iffy for stability, with Bill's saw's weight and any beefy lumb er, as high as it will be. A couple of the reviews said it was wobbly, but didn't say why.
The leg span of my sawbuck, front to back, is 25", table top is 35 3/4" hig h. I've never had any stability issues.
Temporary stand? Several half-lap jointed 2X4s in a narrower-at-the-top "H
-A" frame assembly (wide front-to-back footprint), X2, then heavy-duty hing ed to each end of a table top's frame, makes for an inexpensively made stan d. Install leg extension stops. Optional: A few wheels on an axle makes f or the mobility.
Sonny
replying to Bill, Curtis M Gauthier wrote: The stand is a very nice stand. My problem is with the instructions. The figures don't come close to matching the instructions. Very poorly written and confusing.
replying to Bill, Curtis M Gauthier wrote: The stand is a very nice stand. My problem is with the instructions. The figures don't come close to matching the instructions. Very poorly written and confusing.
Why is it we're suddenly seeing all of these replies to ancient posts? In this case we're talking five years although in one recent case it was fifteen(!) years old. C'mon folks. Take a look at the original date and ask yourself if anything you post might still be relevant.
Because it is just a click bait troll for the link (same one for every post) that is always posted?
"Click on over here to see the context - and we need/want all the clicks we can get. Rather than just asking, "Please click our link" someone is doing his best to be sneaky and hoping his post garners a click or two.
Home Moaners Hub and Google Groups, neither of which prominently show the posting date apparently. HMH is simply driving traffic to their site, so they likely DGAS.
Not sure what you mean by that. Both HOH and GG prominently show the date in the upper right corner of every post. HOH even includes the words "posted on".
DGAS?
What does the Delta Natural Gas Company have to do with this? Do you own some of their stock? ;-)
Homeowners Hub does prominently displays the date at the top of the page GG not sure.
Do a google search.
Now you can be sure about GG. This was copied from the Dolphin browser on an iPad, but it's essentially the same across all browsers and platforms. That's one of the beauties of using GG. Very portable and sync'd across all devices.
That's DAGS, not DGAS.
II was giving Scott a little bit of Mike's $hit. ;-)
One of few, maybe the only one.
I originally switched to GG because it was the only way to access usenet on my corporate desktop, upon which I was not allowed to add a standalone newsreader. Once I realized the convenience of portability/syncing, I saw no reason to continue using separate newsreaders on my multiple devices.
Sure, I took a lot of crap from die-hard usenet/newsreader bigots, many of whom plonked Google Groupers just out of "principle", but F them. It is they that missed the opportunity to partake of my wisdom. ;-)
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