make it or buy it what do you use

some previous advice about featherboards has got me to look at different designs and ideas on featherboards
i have oak that i will probably use to make a couple featherboards but i wonder if oak is well suited for this
oak is fairly stiff do featherboards want a more springier wood or is oak good enough
any other things to consider for featherboards
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On 8/3/2015 4:39 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

My store bought feather board is oak however it's feathers were cut narrowly with what appears to be a band saw.
Cut narrowly enough and long enough you should be able to have as much give as you like.
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Here's the one I bought: (Amazon.com product link shortened)
What I liked about it was that it was stackable, so if I'm resawing I can use the featherboard to hold the wood at a higher point. A nice design decision is the knobs secure the support to the miter slot only, then the other knobs allow the featherboard to move in and out.
One drawback is that the bolts need to be swapped out when using it as two separate feather boards. There's lots of little bits of hardware to mess with. (Simple is not always easy.)
There may be other designs out there that are cheaper or better, but I've been happy with this one.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

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If you are going to do a large amount of ripping then a Yellow set of board buddies are just the ticket.
When I built the mold for the boat I built, started with 2 x 12 x 24 ft doug fir timbers and ended up with 1-1/2" x 5/8" x 24 ft battens.
Easily made a mile of cuts and filled a dumpster with saw dust that week end.
Those board buddy's made all the difference in ther world.
Prevented kick back and kept the stock against the fence.
Lew
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On 03 Aug 2015 22:58:12 GMT, Puckdropper

That's what I use, too. I also have a MagSwitch featherboard that I generally use on the table.

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says...

First ones I made were red oak. They're still fine after 30 years.
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