I'm new to wood working and have just put together a couple of glue-
ups for raised panels. A couple of the boards are sitting proud of
the rest and I was wandering if I can use a planner to get them level
since I don't have a belt sander or hand plane.
Thanks in advance for your help,
Of course you can. If it will fit in the planer, fire it up and plane
it. That is the easiest way to get the job done if you don't have a
Watch out you don't plane too much, or that you don't plane matching
panels to the same thickness.
If your panels will fit thru the panel, the answer is "yes"; however,
be aware that you will probably need to clean up both sides.
If you are 1/16 proud on one side, you will be 1/16 low on the back
side, thus if you need both sides clean, you will remove at least 1/8
minimum from the panel.
Sure. Take light passes. In the future you can use biscuits to ensure that
the boards will all be in the same plane. When clambing the boards
together you can also use cauls (http://www.newwoodworker.com/cauls.html )
accross the boards
or alternatively use clamps on the ends to bring the joints into alignment.
May I ask about your lumber storage system? I'm on the verge of doing
something similar. Specifically...
1. Length of arms and how heavily you have been able to load them
2. How you attached arms to verticals. Through bolts?
3. How you attached the "auxiliary" verticals to both fixed verticals and
4. Spacing between arms. Have you found it to be too little? too much?
5. "White wood" 2x4s? SYP? Other?
6. Any words of wisdom you care to impart
Most of what you asked can be found on my web page here: (small pictures
enlarge when clicked)
As far as how heavily I can load them, I have had it full of 4/4 cherry
until it hits the upper shelf support arm.
Glued and screwed. Here is where I would change it. I would make the
"auxiliary" verticals from 3/4" ply and cut them to make a triangle (with
the 90 degree at the top)
Every other stud received a shelf support. Seems to be ok.
Change the "auxiliary" verticals. I have noticed a very very small amount
of shelf sag over time (minimal). This might be due to the auxiliary shelf
support. I have found that this can be fixed by adding shims under the
I see from other responses that you won't have a lot of trouble putting
the panels through your planer.
I don't currently own a planer, so I use hand planes all the time for
this kind of thing. If you're new to the hobby, you might want to
consider getting a plane or two. Much easier to set up than the planer,
and gives excellent results if they're sharp.
Understand, I'm not against a planer in any way. I just think that a few
hand planes (especially a decent block plane) is indispensable in a wood
shop. The block and a jack plane are good starts.
Ok, I've had my say there. The other side of the coin with hand planes
is that they're worse than useless if not sharp. And I'd be remiss in
recommending buying a plane or two without the sharpening equipment that
goes with it. That gets you into more stuff to buy and more expense.
There's a bit of a learning curve associated with sharpening as well.
If you're interested we can give you more information about what's
involved. However, if the planer is all you think you need at the
moment, you're still ok.
Just something to think about.
Having a respect for any tool is a good thing, to tell the truth. But
handplanes are truly pretty safe. And easy to use once you've played
with them for a bit.
Swing's idea is a good one. I don't have that rig but I do have a water
stone and a jig from Lee Valley that ensures my bevel is set correctly.
I have the stone and jig, but the WorkSharp sure looks attractive. If
you can afford it, that can get you into planes, a decent set of chisels
and a lot more tools that need sharpening in a hurry.
As I said in a previous post, sharpening has a learning curve, and i
suspect that's still true with the WorkSharp. But so is everything else
in the hobby.
If you do decide to get a plane, come back and ask questions here. There
are plenty of people who use them and lots of them are more than willing
to give some tips.
For a long time I've been wanting to use a hand plane, but not knowing
the correct way to use or sharpen them... I'm embarrassed to say they
Sometimes you can use a jack plane to get the panel a little closer to flat
on one side *before* you run it through the planer. Sometimes you won't
waste as much wood.(thickness)
One of the handiest tools to use beforehand is a disposable blade paint
scraper. Use it to remove most of the glue squeeze out before you run it
though the planer.
I've used a Hyde paint scrapper for years, like the one in the link below,
to good effect for that task.
Takes the glue right off, and a fresh sharp blade will even level your
seams with little effort.
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