I started trying out my new D4R dovetail jig. When I am routing the tails in through dovetail mode, I am getting a lot of chatter. I am using a PC8529 plunge router.
I finally got one to come out looking good even though I had a lot of chatter. It feels like the bit is gonna break sometimes.
Have you got eh bit in as deep as possible in the router collet? Are you using the 1/4" shank bits? You might want to switch to their 8mm bits. They have a lot more mass. When cutting a through DT with the DT bit you are removing a lot of material
I am getting very frustrated with this thing. I even managed to hit the end of one of the fingers with a spinning bit and cut a small chunk out. I moved this finger to the end where it will not get used, but I think I will still replace it. I think I am done for the night.
I agree with Leon's comments and the bit needs to be almost all the way up in the collet. If the bits are too long I cut off a chunk so that I can have the cutter way up around the collet.. I find that 1/2" collet bits work best for correcting this problem. I feel 8m/m is still a bit on the lean side especially for cutting hardwoods.
Make sure your collar is centered on the bit. Both routers.
Recommend the spiral bits for precut and pins. They make finer sawdust, but no chatter as with the two-flutes. You might have to adjust your jig a bit, according to instructions for differing diameters.
Did I mention to center the collar on the bit? Both routers. prevents surprises.
Too long bits are rarely a problem with the Leigh jigs ... with some routers it can be a struggle to get a dovetail bit up far enough in the router collet in dovetail mode because of the thickness of the jig fingers.
Sounds as if this is what Stoutman is experiencing ...
Be pretty tough to do that on my D4 with the necessary 7/16 collar guide on the router. That's why Leigh recommends, and supplies, 8mm.
I've used mine in maple, the world's densest white oak , cedar, poplar, and red oak.
The only time I can remember anything that could be described as chatter, I was trying to push too fast straight through, where the bit was encased in wood. I find "scooping" movements, moving left to right, work much better.
I simply felt it was important to point out that my D4R manual states in several locations that two routers usually create more problems than they solve. I'm glad they work for you.
That's true for halfblind dovetails where only one bit is used ... for through dovetails where two different bits are used, at least in my older D4 manual, they indicate that a second router for the straight bit is a good idea (page 62 - Fig 8-29).
The mention you reference is not in my manual, dated 01/05 on the inside back cover.
On page 47 (fig. 7-7), they state that "Concentricity problems can _only_ (my emphasis) arise if two routers are used for through dovetails, (one for pins; one for tails)."
My manual is considerably older [apparently back when routers and jigs were better made ;) ] ... 1995.
Here is the applicable page:
formatting link
AAMOF, and because I've quite often done as many as 60 or 80 drawer sides at a time, I've always set up two routers when using the Leigh D4 for through dovetails - one for the DT bit/one for the straight bit - and never had a problem, and not even the same two routers every time ... go figure.
That said, I've always noted, as Leon confirmed to me the other day as his experience, that "through dovetails" with the Leigh are a lot less fussy than halfblind dovetails.
... AAMOF, I won't batch cut too many halfblinds, pins or tails, with the Leigh D4 without doing some interim test fits.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.