leakproof wooden roof

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Shouldn't be a problem but you could use neoprene-washer metal-roofing nails if you are concerned.
John
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George wrote: If the ridge cap is to be leakproof, how exactly do I make it, and how do I attach it to the roof?
The small figurines on the top of the roof (see link above) are cut from plywood and set between two 2x2s, which are in turn "attached" to the ridge cap. Again, how best to do this without producing leaks.
Aww, that's cute. We always laid a strip of 30 lb. felt along the ridge under the caps. Then, just like your main roof, some "starter" caps are nailed in place starting at the lee side of the house(3/4 length, and wide enough to hide the felt). Alternating the ridge lap of the caps, nail them about an inch behind the desired exposure, so the next cap covers the nails. These ridge nails are long enough to penetrate the substrate. Final caps get a dab of caulking on the nailheads. This area of the roof normally doesn't see much water, as it drains away quickly, so I wouldn't worry too much about your 2x attachment. Nail right through the ridgecaps, I say. Try not to split 'em! Tom
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An ex-northern roofer.
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Sounds like this would survive -30 degrees for 3 months. Thanks George
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(tom)some "starter" caps are

(George)3/4 length? (tom)Yes, cut the butt end.
Alternating the ridge lap of the caps,

(George) Damn clever!
(tom) Oh yes, but the instructions are on most bundles of cedar shingles, so I can't take any credit! Tom
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George wrote:

When I built my daughter's swingset, I used PT pine 1"x4" stock and formed tongue &grove joints. At the ridgeline, I gut the groove on the flat side of the stock instead of the edge. It works well (as well as PT pine can work, anyway).
YMMV. Your roof looks considerably more compicated than mine.
-j
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