I've Decided On My New Router Table Design


I recently bought a new sized router bit from Lee Valley (damn you Robin Lee, now that I've looked thru the catalogs, I'll be buying more stuff soon). Rather than switch bits, I decided to make another router table, and stick anouther router in it. I've got 5 of the little buggers. LOL
But, I was having problems figuring just where to put the second router table. Space problem you know. My router bit lives in the router table, and I was going to keep that table, and just add a second.
But, then inspiration struck. Dump the present table, make another table, this time with a cutout to accept a base screwed to the router(s). That way I can just drop a router, with a specific bit, into the cutout, no prob. To change bits, just pull out the router, and drop in the router with the other bit.
The top will be two pieces of 1/2", or whatever, plywood. Bottom piece will have a hole to accept the router. Top piece will have a square cutout to accept the base. The base will be plywood too, with a hole in the center for the router bit to go thru. The two top pieces will be glued together once the holes are done.
I'd been thinking about making another table, for awhile, but haven't, because the present one works so well. But, now this will let me make a few changes I've been thinking about - a slightly larger table for one, and maybe move the router more back from the front.
This is all quite clear in my mind, "Don' need no steenkin' plans".
If "any" part of this is unclear to any of you, feel free to ask questions. NOT me! Instead, ask Tom Watson, and/or Edwin Pawlowski. If you know their telephone numbers, feel to call collect, and talk for awhile. It's OK to call late at night too. If not, e-mail them. And, e-mail several times, just in case they don't get the first ones. They don't know any more than you do, but they've been telling people to e-mail me. Be sure to give them my regards.
JOAT You only need two tools: WD-40, and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
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plans".
ask
Joat,
I was wondering - how do you choose which part of which plan ( you know, all those other table plans you've been posting) goes with the table you'll be building?
I mean, what if you miss getting a beginning page from one plan, and what if you omit an ending page of another? Does that mean your build-up will go 'round-n-'round? And possibly not get finished?
And are you sure you can make it go clockwise, like it should in the northern hemisphere?
I mean - I mmeeeann - (think Arlo Guthrie here) - even though you don't need plans, there's got to be some sort of 'directions' floating around in your mind. And they had to come from somewhere, right?
Just wanting to help, John Sellers
(and not at all sure that I should disturb Tom or Edwin)
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Tue, Jan 24, 2006, 7:13pm snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth.net (JohnSellers) doth burble:

None.

Now you're being silly.

Sure, it's based on my old one. You didn't realize that? Everyone else does.

Candyass.
JOAT You only need two tools: WD-40, and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
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(John Sellers) doth burble:

Everyone
But, that's still a point of departure - you had a plan for that first table, right? (or second, third, whichever table the 'first' one has the distinction of being) Even if you didn't record it, you still had a plan. I really don't see how someone works without some type of notation. When I've tried it, I ended up wasting all sorts of wood, not to mention the possibility of screwing up other materials (fasteners, hardware, etc.) I put into the piece from multiple installation. And that's over and above the test pieces I work with. It only makes sense to me to make sure I'm maintaining the necessary dimensions, width/length/height, if they're only scribbled on the work piece in pencil. Builders do this all the time, even to the point of leaving instructions for subcontractors written on the framing. (Have to be a little more careful with the lead hardness when you're not hiding the wood with wall sheathing.)
If I were building from a prototype (I guess that's what you're calling the 'first' table now?), maybe it would be covered with notes.
Just curious to know how you do it without some time of "planning" - maybe it would help me plane down my own methods. Ever store and print those web pages you surf?

I've was called Candyman a couple of times, but that never stuck - thankfully. (Grateful Dead version, not Sammy Davis, Jr.)
Good luck with the new table, John
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Wed, Jan 25, 2006, 7:54pm snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth.net (JohnSellers) now queryeth:
You really should be directing all your questions to Tom and Ed. However.

Actually, no. Looked at some, pricey - way too pricey, wouldn't fit the space I had, didn't fit my needs. So, just used some scrap 2X4 chuks for a "frame", scrap plywood for the top. Glue to hold it together, bolts to hold it to a shelf, under the bandsaw, low enough to sit using it. Didn't like it, don't really recall why, believe the top was too thin, and bowed. Went to version 2 (r could be version 3, not certain), based on the first one, thicker plywood top. Later glued a think layer on top of that. Total cost, maybe $2 max - bolds, nuts, washers, plus screws to hold the router to the top. Does just what I want. Just figured out how it went as I did it. No plans, measurements taken at the time of construction, nothing written down.

Sometimes I mark down some measurements. Maybe a rough sketch. Maybe sevral sketches - sometimes it's good to look back and forth from one idea to another. I also freely make changes to any sketch. Once in a very great while, a reasonably detailed sketch - this is "not" often. It basically depends on how complex the pieces will be. I will be making some gun cases in the near future. I wrote down measurements of the guns, so I won't have to redo them when I actually start. Except for that, the rest of the design in in my head. They'll probably all be made to the same length, about 42-44 inches (to be decided later), because they'll be stored in a large storage case, that I'm still working out. I do have a rough sketch of the legs for that, the rest is in my head - including the approximate size - just figuring out details - in my head.

Now you know why you never throw away any leftover pieces of wood. Prototypes.

No, ikt's the "first" one. I make masters to rout out pieces. They are covered with notes written with magic marker - cut sizes, etc., any info I think I will need later - that way I don't have to remember them, and they aren't written down in a notebook I can't find when I need it.

I do a LOT of web surfing, looking for inspiration - that's where my plans posts come from. I save links up the wazoo, even if it's only vaguely related to what I'm after. When I'm ready to proceed, go thru what I've saved, dump what won't work for me, maybe print out a few specific items. Thien I think about what I want to do, and how to do it. Take some measurements - or just look at a tape measure to see just how long X many of inches are I think about it. Then I think about it. Then think some more. I have been told that a lot of people can't do this, but I can pretty much visualize what I want to do. Personally, I think that just about anyone could do this, if they just tried. So, that's pretty much how "I" do it. Once I get my garage up, I'll start on a vehicle project. I haven't taken measurement one for it, but know just how it'll go, because I've got it all thought out. I'll measure as I'm doing. No prob.

Sure. It's usually called the archives. For the few I'm personally interested in, I post a link to them on my web page.

Not by me.
JOAT You only need two tools: WD-40, and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
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