Anybody have any experience w/ the Grizzly knock-off? A question in
another forum made me think of it -- I've been tempted several times
with the Tormek but the exorbitant pricing has kept me away. If the
Grizzly didn't have excessive runout or other "issues" would seem a
pretty good deal and bite the bullet for a couple of the "high-priced
Oh, intended to attach the link...
The "Specifications" sheet has no data on runout or such, of course. It
also notes (as we knew) it is manufactured in China albeit the
description page touts that it was "designed in Germany" -- yeah, right!
The Tormek model is, of course, Swedish.
Super Grind 2000
I can sharpen Power Planer Knives/Blades, Chisels, Scissors, Large and
Small knives, Hatchet, Chisel/Gouges for the lathe. Plus it has the
regular leather wheel and profile leather wheel, grading stone, angle
gauge for chisels and plane irons and a cloth cover.
I used to think I was going to sharpen my lathe tools on the Tormek so I
have those. Turns out I did not have the patience to learn to use the
regular chisels and seldom used the lathe. Then I got a set of the
carbide tipped chisels and I use the lathe much much more. Those
chisels have almost no learning curve.
A HF 1x30 or better belt sander and some good sanding belts will be very
useful. I haven't used the WorkSharp knife sharpener, but it looked like
it was basically a belt sander set up.
The WorkSharp is great for chisels and plane blades, while the belt sander
handles turning tools and my pocket knife with ease.
It's so out-of-balance here it's barely useful for sanding, what more
sharpening. I've trued it up some but it needs more attention than I've
time to give if it's ever going to run even close to true...and the belt
speed is pretty fast imo for sharpening. Rough out, maybe...
On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 5:36:12 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
You know how much I appreciate a fine edge. I grade my edged tools on the
service I expect them to provide, from opening paint cans to shaving.
So for what it is worth, those are two excellent pieces of gear. I have se
en screamingly sharp mirror edges put in tools with both of those systems.
Good choices. I have almost bit on the Worksharp 3000 several times, but
in the end just go back to a Washita/Arkansas soft and a strops when I need
a fine edge. I sharpen my chisels free hand and they will shave if that i
s the edge I am after, but will readily admit the WS 3000 gets a <better> e
dge, and in a shorter time with less effort than I can get.
A word or warning on the KO WS. Another great system, but sacrifice those
old kitchen knives first when learning the ins and outs of that machine. I
t can be very, very aggressive even with the finer belts. I KNOW you are q
uite conversant in the use of instructional videos, but just in case you ha
ven't seen this one from Knife Center (great guys to buy knives from!)here
is a link, as well as the attendant videos they always stack on the side.
As we spoke at Christmas, I probably spend too much time on Bladeforums. T
he guys that have the KO WS love it. Many report shaving edges for the fir
st time in the history of their knife ownership. Just remember, you knives
won't be ground like a chisel on the WS, which are ground at a certain ang
le to your satisfaction.
The KO WS is actually a mini "slack" belt sander that produces CONVEX edges
. They have guides on the tool to give an idea of how far back you push th
e edges on a convex edge, but regardless of the degree of angle you select
you will still have a convex edge. Personally, I prefer a convex edge on m
y knives with the exception of one or two specialty blades. Speaking from m
y personal experience in sharpening, they hold an edge better for me and ar
e easier to maintain since I freehand sharpen, which by its nature creates
a convex edge. So the whole slack belt genre is right in my bailiwick.
Just a warning, señor... don't start out with your good stuff. I have se
en too many cases of folks grinding their knives down to nothing trying to
get even edges, and worse, burn the metal (ruining the temper) because they
didn't appreciate how efficient/aggressive that little machine actually ca
n actually be. I will be interested to see what you think of it when you g
et to grinding with it.
Actually......I bought the regular version of the WS knife sharpener for
Bryan. He likes it and sharpened Kim's Chicago knives with it. He gave me
the KO version for Christmas. I finally used it on my pocket knife and
one of Kim's Chicago knives. I adhered to the suggestions to not force it
and to move the blade at a certain speed. And chose lower speeds for the
belt. With the Chicago knife I handled the it like a loaded gun after
feeling the edge.
Actually I did start with the good but knew this would be aggressive so I
did follow the instructions concerning feed rate, pressure, and belt speed.
I very happy with the tool.
On 1/15/2016 3:52 AM, email@example.com wrote:
I found the WS3000 on Zoro. Most every one sells the 3000 for $200.
They had it for sale at around $235 but had a 30% off coupon with free
shipping. So I got if for around $165. I figured the price was not
going to get any better than that. I think I bought it on Monday after
Anyway we gave Bryan a WS knife sharpener for his birthday and he was
pretty happy with it. Hanna, his GF remarked that his knives were much
better to use. ;~) He also sharpened Kim's Chicago knives which we
have had for about 30~35 years.
Anyway I was impressed and he gave me the KO version for Christmas.
I followed the instructions, starting with the medium belt, using a slow
grind speed, feeding 1" per second, and not pressing down on the knife.
When done with that knife I felt the edge and was compelled to handle
the knife like a loaded gun... ;~) And no new curves in the knife edge!
I will say that I was a little surprised that neither model reverses the
belt rotation direction for sharpening the other side of the edge.
I'll check that out.
Precicely and probably why it sharpens so much faster, it does not have
to reestablish a particular flat angle surface.
OOPS! Too late. ;~) No problem though.....
I was not looking for a visually stunning edge so much as sharp and
faster than my other methods of sharpening.
I will be interested
I'm almost afraid to go too sharp, I had to take Kim to the ER when I
did that 15 years ago using the Tormek. ;~( She did however test on a
tomato and was very very happy.
On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 01:52:05 -0800 (PST), " firstname.lastname@example.org"
Go to Oregon and get your commission! :)
Reading the posts this morning, and a quick check on Youtube videos
regarding the Knife Sharpeners, I was sold.
Got the Knife and tool sharpener with the fixed degree's and narrow
belt. Woodcraft had it for 69.95 everyone else @ 89.95 locally.
Started out on the wife's kitchen knives, serrated steak knives, etc.
Something like 20 + Knives in less than an hour and a half and wore
out one 220 grit belt. Used a manual strop on those.
Then did my Chicago Cutlery favorites 220 to the 6,000? to my manual
strop. My Chef's knife was the dullest and the angle just wasn't quite
right on it, so it required a little longer, but now they all feel
like they did when I first got them some 40 years ago.
Did a pocket knife and restored a broken tip, plus a cheap knife, big
blade, my son had in his car.
I have spent a whole lot more money on other sharpeners, individually,
over the years but to me this one is a keeper, easy to use, just watch
out so you don't round off the tip, and watch the videos.
The more expensive one just looks better, higher quality and a 1"
belt. But I personally did not like the floppy degree settings,
beside, to just check it out the cost at 150 bucks compared to 70 it
was a no brainer, and a keeper for sure.
Thanks for the heads up. In just over 2 hours I did what previously
would have taken a few days a few hours at a time.
Leon got me hooked and you reeled in the line.
Thanks a bunch.
I bought one of the grinder kits from HD for mine, but in Calif we
have a lot of rocks in some area's and my reel was hammered pretty
bad. I got the blade done ok, and quit there. I prefer the reel type
since it will cut damp grass and for several other reasons.
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